Made by Humans / Unmade by Humans
The 2023 Bordeaux En Primeur Campaign was an unmitigated catastrophe from a sales perspective, yet I found an enormous number of fantastic wines worthy of serious consideration.
The successful wines in 2023 were made by incredible, instinctive decisions made by the most experienced people in the region: Made by Humans. And these successful wines are sublime. By contrast, I eliminated the largest number of sub-standard wines ever, including many famous names, whose score fell below my self-imposed cut-off of 16.5/20 (or 88/100).
I published around 12000 words on some of the early releases on matthewjukes.com in April/May this year. I then kept my notes and scores to myself and watched the various ‘release prices’ fail to attract buyers as Châteaux became increasingly desperate and wine merchants all but gave up. My Report reflects on some truly excellent wines, many released at worthwhile pricing this year. Most of us, although not as many as one might wish in Bordeaux, realise things had got way out of hand. You cannot charge more for wine in a barrel, years away from drinking, than a delicious, mature vintage. We all demanded realistic pricing to light the touchpaper and fire up peoples’ enthusiasm for a region that today’s collectors have essentially given up on. Experienced buyers feel terminally let down by estates whose pockets they have lined for decades. Something had to change. But the changes did not go anywhere near enough, suggesting that En Primeur might be irreparably broken.
Regardless, I still love the best wines, so I have collated detailed notes and scores on 258 wines. While the campaign was Unmade by Humans, the wines at the top of the tree will prevail, and there are plenty to choose from, with over 40 wines gaining a score of 19/20 (96/100) and above. This year, my notes are particularly personal, as I highlight unmissable wines in this vintage. It is also worth noting that it is a strong vintage for second wines from stellar properties. Contrary to popular belief, there is value if you look closely. This vintage is worthy of a second chance, so I have let the dust settle and now publish my thoughts for you to consider outside of the chaos and noise of the EP circus. Don’t forget that many high-flyers will drink very well early in their lives, so this is not a vintage you need to lock away for decades. The most beautiful are wines marked with freshness and vivacity, lower alcohols and pure fruit, and they mesh seamlessly with our modern sensibilities. So, I urge you to look again. I have, and I can find, much to admire and acquire in 2023 Bordeaux.