Jukes Wine And Food Sweetbreads

With butter and sorrel, sauce ravigote (mustard, red wine vinegar, capers and tarragon) or sauce gribiche (like ravigote but with chopped hard-boiled eggs and parsley as well), sweetbreads demand aromatic, decadently textured, luxurious, self-confident whites. Alsatian or South Australian Riesling (Clare or Eden Valley) with a bit of age would be my first choice. If you can’t find any, then try creamy, oily, nutmeg- and peach-scented Rhône whites. All of these are dear, but there’s no way around this quandary, as this is a demanding sector of the food repertoire. Ris de veau aux morilles (veal sweetbreads with a very rich, creamy wild mushroom sauce) needs the most intense Rhône whites or Alsatian Rieslings.