Jukes Wine And Food Onion

As a stand-alone dish, onion is at its best in a classic Cipolle ripiene (Piemonte stuffed onions – dine at Trattoria della Posta for a life-changing version) and drink Roero Arneis or chilled Dolcetto d’Alba or French onion tart, and Alsatian Riesling is the only true wine to drink with this noble offering. If you must stray from this advice (you will get a black mark from the wine police) but who cares because Clare Valley Rieslings from South Australia would work beautifully. Occasionally you see caramelised onions offered as a side dish – watch out. They are often delicious, intensely sweet (of the same order as a treacle tart) and, although you can moderate this by combining mouthfuls with the other elements of your meal, they are a real danger to a glass of dry wine so don’t eat them with anything remotely serious in the wine department. My advice is to eat enthusiastically and sip cautiously. For French onion soup see ‘Soup’.