Jukes Wine And Food Liver

Calves’ liver with sage (an old-fashioned but ever-so-tasty retro dish) needs medium-weight reds with prominent acidity. The texture of medium-rare liver is relatively delicate, but the iron-flavour is rich and pure, and the wine’s acidity cuts through this intensity with style. Loire reds made from Cabernet Franc are your first port of call; Saumur-Champigny, Chinon, St Nicolas de Bourgueil and Bourgueil are all relatively inexpensive (sub-fifteen quid) and a perfect match. I wouldn’t look any further, but if you need a larger choice then head to Northern Italy to some well known and less so names – Valpolicella, Teroldego from Trentino, Lagrein, Marzemino and Cabernet (Franc or Sauvignon – sometimes Italians don’t specify which you’re getting. Chianti is usually a great match, too, assuming you pick a decent estate – and stick to the entry-level wine as the Riserva will be wearing too much oak! These all have the required fruit richness with the balancing acidity, freshness and grip needed for this task. Liver and bacon need a touch more spice in red wine, but not much more weight, so move to a warmer part of France or Italy (i.e. head further south or look for a hot vintage). Red Bordeaux and Brunello di Montalcino would be terrific, but this is likely to push the price up a good few pounds.