Penfolds Rewards of Patience Tasting 2024 – London
PENFOLDS REWARDS OF PATIENCE EDITION 9 TASTING
LONDON, OCTOBER 2024
I was thrilled to be invited to attend the Rewards of Patience tastings on Thursday and Friday this week at The Lanesborough Hotel in London. I have copied my unedited notes below. These are verbatim, so please ignore any obvious typos and grammatical hiccups. I have submitted these notes to Andrew (see below) for possible inclusion in the forthcoming book covering this global initiative and been grated permission to let my readers learn of my thoguhgts and scores on all of the wines that have been released onto the market. Embargoed notes will not be published until Penfolds grants me permission.
This was one of the most remarkable events I have ever attended, and my thanks go to the Penfolds team for their incredible professionalism, organisation and generosity. It is also important to note that my fellow tasters are rare beacons of excellence in this vast wine world. The analysis and insight from Nick Ryan, Dr Neil Beckett, Tamlyn Currin and, of course, the inimitable Penfolds superhero Peter Gago was the finest imaginable. We were moderated with imperial expertise by Andrew Caillard MW, who has recently published Australian wine’s magnum opus, The Australian Ark, and there is no other person on earth who one would want at the helm of this ship! Jancis Robinson MW and Penfolds winemaker Shauna Bastow joined for Day 2, bringing even more expertise and experience to the fold. I am still reeling from the experience.
DAY 1 MORNING
Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
2002 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
Sealed under cork. The colour is representative of an aged wine, but there are still green hints among the gold. The nose is bright, mildly exotic at first, and then it settles into a rather plush Chardonnay framework. Moments of apricot blossom conspire to add an extra dimension of fruit complexity, but the main body of action is deliciously ripe citrus-imbued Chardonnay, which builds and sharpens as it rolls across the palate. The finish is firm, brittle and mouth-watering, and while I was expecting a degree of drama, I had no idea that the acidity would be so precise, buttressing the fruit and lengthening the experience. This is an imposing wine, and there is clearly sufficient tension for it to benefit from even more time in the cellar. 19/20
2003 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
It was bottled under cork, but a small amount was sealed with a screwcap. We are tasting a screwcap-sealed wine. A flatter and more closed nose kicks off proceedings, and there is a sliver of blunt oak down the spine of this wine. It has none of the theatricality of the 2002, and it stands rather still on the palate. Granted, there is enough acidity for it to seem tense and still in need of time, but the fruit is somewhat épuisé, and the lack of generosity and core juiciness will hold it back from finding true balance. I suspect its best days were five years ago when the fruit would have appeared more ebullient, but, equally, the acidity would have forced the taster to conclude that it needed more time. In the greater scheme of things, this 21-year-old Chardonnay is a remarkable wine, but it is a rare miss in the pantheon of Yattarnas. 18/20
2004 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
There is a gorgeous whoosh of nuttiness on the nose, followed by flamboyant patisserie tones and a broad array of citrus and stone fruit here. Excitable and energetic, this wine seeks to please from the very first moment it hits the glass. While the fruit appears a little uncontrolled and lacking in formality, this is a downright gorgeous Chardonnay, and it would please not only fans of this wine but also amateurs alike. The mid-palate is slippery and buoyant, and the finish is super-long, teasingly acidic and bitter with outstanding balance and vivacity. Big-boned and beautiful, this is a fabulous wine that will run and run. It gets few points for elegance but a full house for ambition. This is the only wine with no new oak in the line-up. Astonishing. 19.5+/20
2006 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
Soothing almond tones signal a wine with a very considered oak programme and one that seems to want to be a more subtle and refined style in 2006. This wine is also quieter on the palate, with none of the explosive energy of the 2004 and a much more nuanced and Zen-like presence throughout. The finish is refined, long, somewhat steely and impressive. This is a more Chablis-shaped wine than many. 19+/20
2007 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
This blocky, slightly muscular vintage appears to lack refinement, and while the finish is brittle, crunchy and mineral-soaked, the fruit seems a little more anxious and hectic. It is still fairly youthful, yet the fruit is a little one-dimensional and buttoned down. I find this a slightly confusing style, and while I don’t think this is one of the true classics, it conforms to a remarkable and impressive classicism. In this line-up it looks shy, and this is reflected in my score. 18.5+/20
2008 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
Solid and athletic on the nose, this is a tense wine with rare muscularity and unnerving power. It smells ‘young’ and somewhat malevolent, and while it is tempting to think that this is oak, muscling in on the action, it is simply firmness and volume of fruit. The mid-palate is hard, steely and raucously mouth-watering, and there is little room for flavours outside of the citrus spectrum. The finish is gorgeously long and sleek, with flashing warning signs saying, ‘mind the acid’. It finishes, pin-sharp and invigorating, and the overall impression is of a glorious five-year-old wine instead of one three times the age. This is a stellar fusion of classicism and epic quality fruit, blessed with perfect sunshine. 19.5+/20
2009 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
The nose appears more demure on this nervous 2009. There is a fluidity here that ensures the flavours race across the palate at speed, and unlike the more imposing vintages, this is a skittish and furtive wine with sudden changes of direction alternating between pebble-fresh minerality and lemon-zest freshness. It is a little bit of an outlier. I like its character, but it appears not to be a true Yattarna in terms of its scale of flavour. My score reflects very much a personal Chardonnay score as opposed to an absolute Yattarna score. 19/20
2010 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
With every glass, one experiences a wildly different flavour, and this time, there is an initial sternness and belligerence that is all-consuming. The refusal to communicate is fascinating, and even with vigorous swirling and aeration, this is a closed wine, and then the richness appears. While there appears to be a slight lack of mid-palate freshness, there is a serious volume of flavour, and the finish is a little too buttoned down right now. It is hard to tell, but the acidity on the finish is phenomenal so there is no need to panic as it has a grip on the fruit. My score reflects the initial grumpiness of this wine and the bulk of fruit. It needs time but is not as refined as I desire in this wine. 18.5+/20
2011 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
A hint of sweet hay on the nose reveals some oak interference, and the fruit also shows the merest candied nuance, which I find a little maudlin. The Yattarna framework is in place, but the building blocks seem a touch tarnished and lacking in true brightness and conviction. Will it even out? I feel like I am letting the side down, but I am not confident that true balance will be achieved in this 2011 vintage wine, and hence, I have included a rare ‘?’ in my score. 18+?/20
2012 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
Pure clean, chilly and brittle, this is a crystalline vintage and one that shows sensational freshness and vitality. Tense and somewhat closed, there is no doubt that a massive potential is buried within the core of this wine. I am shocked at the purity, the sheer scale of energy and the prodigious length of finish. This is not only a spectacular Yattarna, but it is also a lithe, athletic wine with nothing out of place and no extra bulk, too. There was clearly no need to push this wine as it must have looked spectacular at every stage of its production. This will be a 30-year wine! I absolutely love it because it ticks every elite Chardonnay box in my book. 20+/20
2013 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
An open nose, with discreet hints of butterscotch and candied lime zest, makes for a very attractive start. The fruit comes on quickly, and there is a lot going on from the very first moment. While this is full-flavoured wine it is not particularly rich or indeed heavy. The generosity and openness make it one of the most forward of the wines, and at 11 years old, it is drinking and will provide drinkers with much pleasure, yet they will have the capacity to hold it for a further decade with ease. 18.5+/20
2014 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
This is a linear, statuesque wine with a relatively stern set of fruit notes coupled with strict and mirror-image acidity. There is a sense of conformity here, and the fruit flavours are regimented, and they take turns to trot up for inspection and then senesce perfectly back to their allotted position. While this is a quiet wine and one that appears shy and restrained, I admire its precision and its brightness. It is one of the more elegant Yattarnas, and this is not a word I often use for this wine. 19+/20
2015 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
Compared to the sophisticated but quiet 2014, this 2015 is a rabble-rouser. There is power and attack on the nose and front of the palate, and it seems to pulverise the senses with brittle, angular citrus tones and firm, almondy oak notes. The acidity on the finish tears a strip down the centre of the taste buds, warning the drinker to step away, and this is because this wine demands another ten years of slumber in order to be able to reshape and reorder its jumble of flavours. Big, bruising and imposing, this is a mighty wine and just a little too combative for my tastes, but I can certainly admire its scale and drive despite its trouble-maker attitude. 19+/20
2016 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
The perfume here is absolutely enchanting. Teasing patisserie tones overlay a cornucopia of just-ripe stone fruit and succulent pear and apple tones. The citrus notes are pushed back, allowing the more exotic moments to have their time uninterrupted on the palate. And then it builds to a magnificent crescendo and then, minutes later, to absolute stoniness and finally calm. Young, firm, packed with fruit and delicious oak that I have seen before, this is a sensational wine and one that shows bigger (Grand Cru-shaped) creations can still have implacable beauty, too. (This is a four State wine!) 20+/20
2017 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
There is a severity of citrus and mint leaf on the nose here that pierces the senses and leaves one feeling slightly wounded. A distinct lack of flesh means that this is a super-sour style that not only demands time but also looks exceptionally combative at this young age. While this wine might gather some complexity, I worry that its flavour palette is somewhat narrow, and given the citrus spectrum is raw and brittle and the acidity is pinched and bitter, this might be a long wait. 18.5++/20
2018 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
There is an immediacy to this wine which is remarkable. It starts as it means to continue, which means there is tremendous impact and complexity from the off. It is unusual to taste a wine that is at full pelt on the very first sip, as they usually grow or evolve on the palate, but this 2018 is incredible with a swirling vortex of impeccably clean and masterful fruit that barrels along for minutes. It is super-youthful and firm on the finish, but it doesn’t shut down its engine, and even the tsunami of acidity seems to celebrate the fruit carrying it aloft for one to admire. 19.5+/20
2019 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
The power and grace ratio in this wine is fascinating. There is a forceful volley of oak and lime leaf at the kick-off that parts the taste buds, and then it settles and grips the palate limpet-like while it does its dance. This is a ‘takes no prisoners’ style, which loads tension and dryness into its attack, and it feels almost tannic, such is the screeching tyres of power under this bonnet. When the handbrake comes off, this will be a drag racer, all white-knuckle noise and action, but for now, it is clamped down, bristling with energy and attitude. 19.5++/20
2020 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
There is a ripeness and openness which captivates the front half of this wine, and it appears to show riper fruit and more accessible oak highlights than other similar aged wines, but this illusion fast-disappears on the palate because the acidity looms and then skyrockets, shutting the door on the brief moments of frivolity. I can see this wine being a real charmer in five to eight years and then woo all-comers for a further decade. It manages to show a kindlier side to Yattarna without giving up any of the seriousness and gravitas of this label. 19++/20
2021 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
The 2021 vintage is a less complicated Yattarna, and there are no hidden corridors of flavour that I can see. It seems to fulfil its brief and nothing more, which, of course, means that it is a superb white wine dwelling at the summit of Aussie Chardonnay, but I wanted more. I like it when there is mystery, intricate detail and a couple of unanswered questions, and unless this wine evolves in a manner that I cannot imagine, it will always be a workhorse vintage and one that does what it says on the tin, and little more. Having said this, it is still a stunning wine in the greater scheme of things. 19+/20
2022 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
Thrilling and refreshing, this is a delicate wine on the surface, with crystalline fruit notes and a diaphanous appeal, but beneath the surface, there are wells of intense, elite fruit that have barely begun to awaken. I adore this wine as it shows all of the grandeur and majesty that I associated with Yattarna, and while it is a baby, it still manages to communicate the vast majority of its story with clarity and conviction. 19.5+/20
Penfolds Yattarna V Chardonnay
Multi-Vintage V I still don’t get it. Too much misshapen flesh and pith is coupled with rather open, planky oak, and this awkwardness and bulkiness make it hard to achieve balance. Hopsack and cereal notes conspire to make this a more generic Aussie Chardonnay than a clever combination of Yattarna’s greatest hits. Many love it, but I cannot get to grips with this bizarre multi-vintage white initiative. The constituent vintages are 2011, 2012, 2014, 2016 & 2021. 17.5?/20
DAY 1 AFTERNOON
Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
1971 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
The nose is gloriously venerable, and while the colour is browning, it still shines in the glass and shows marvellous grip and toothsome traction despite the flavours dipping into the fig, date and rolling tobacco spectrums. There is plenty of red (not black) fruit remaining, and I suspect that well-stored bottles (and this appears to be a good example) will continue to roll along nicely. The woodsmoke, farmyard and mushroom tones stay on the right side of bright and satisfying and given this is a 53-year-old wine, it has remarkable energy and persistence. 18/20 A second bottle showed even brighter fruit, again with the fig and date notes, but the mushroom and farmyard notes are far less noticeable, making this a very impressive wine indeed. It is still the same wine but has more ‘clarety’ and clarity. 18.5/20
1976 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
There are fewer sous bois notes on the nose here, but the palate is somewhat stripped and a lot spicier than the 1976. The fruit appears to be more Shiraz-dominant and much earthier, too, and it has none of the faint ‘brett’ notes found on the 1971. As it opened in the glass, it showed even more spice and dirt notes, giving the fruit a perfect platform on which to perform. 19/20
1986 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
This is a lighter wine with a hollower core and a stripped-back finish. A latent sweetness interferes with the tannin and acid, making it appear a little feeble and lacking in balancing grippiness, so Peter asked for a second bottle. 17.5/20 The tension this time is stunning. This time, the volume has been turned up a few notches in terms of the weight of red fruit and spice on the finish. The faint wild herb note is a thread throughout, which ties the whole experience together. Stunning and only 12.8% alcohol. 19/20
1990 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
There is a step change here; the fruit is darker (literally) and more blackcurrant imbued. This is a phenomenal wine! Rich, heady, lusty and detailed, it has it all going on. The power is delivered with consummate ease, yet this wine’s overall weight is medium-plus and certainly not heavy. The nose is incredible with stunning pepper spice and wild herb notes, and they combine with the black fruit to create a perfect handshake of fruit and antifruit. The tannins are that of a five-year-old wine, not a forty-year-old wine. I cannot see how this wine can be improved, and I will buy it every time I see it going forward because wines like this are the reason why I started The Great Australian Red competition back in 2006. 20+/20
1991 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
If 1990 is the all-guns-blazing style of Bin 389, then this 1991 is more considered, slightly more fruit-sweet, and considerably more tannic. Completely different in character but every bit as enticing, this wine needs more age as the finish is raspy, prickly and Nebbiolo-like. The glorious nose shows the way it will head in time, and while this is not a perfect bottle, in my opinion, it is still fabulous. 19+/20
1994 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
The first bottle is slightly too oxidised and disjointed, so we called for a second one. The second bottle was much fitter, with more definition and brighter tannins. This is the first wine that shows distinct mintiness, making it a dead-ringer for old-school SA TGAR, and the finish even shows spearmint coolness among the crisp tannin framework. Fascinating. It still has another decade in the tank. 18.5/20
1996 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
Quiet, restrained, and harmonious on the nose, there is civility here that sets it apart from the other 90s wines. The palate is honed and smooth, then changes slowly to reveal fine-grained tannins. This vintage of 389 has an Old-World template, and it works a treat. It appears to be a perfect example of la jupe cache les pieds with regard to the fabulous couture fruit concealing the impeccable tannins. A stealthy wine and yet not a demonstrative creature, this is a delightful number that carries itself with a graceful air. 19/20
1998 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
This 1998 has a boisterous nose with a large dollop of medicinal eucalyptus thrown in for good measure. For my tastes, it appears to be a little too ripe, too oaky and too forced, and the finish shows heat and spice that detracts from the fruit. While plenty of palates will love the scale of flavour here, I prefer the more balanced and intricate vintages. 18+/20
1999 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
There is an overriding sense of earthy fertility here, which means that any spiciness sits back in its chair, allowing the chypre, bark and soil tones to add complexity to the sleek black limo of black cherry and blackberry fruit. This is a super-complex wine for fans of quieter, more finely woven and more calmly delivered 389s, and it is only just starting on its journey. Delicious! 19+/20
2001 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
Another pendulum wine! The perfume has a hotter feel here, with hints of plum jam and loads of mint and Valrhona beneath the surface. It is all rather obvious and heavy-handed, but I cannot fault the balance and the energetic tannins that carry all the exuberance on their shoulders. This plush ripeness will only be accentuated with age, so this might be one to avoid for consumers with more classically shaped palates. 18+/20
2002 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
This is a wonderful wine, and it shows prodigious length and epic control throughout. Nautilus-like, near-menacing, but silent, there is a sleekness and penetration that makes this an epic performance, and I adore the dusting of pepper spice and dried herbs, which start at the beginning and last all the way to the finish. Glorious and detailed, this is a great Bin 389, and the tannins are so agile that it has 20 years to roll. 19.5+/20
2004 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
There is a lot of movement here, with fruit and oak heaving itself around the palate and tannins swinging around like Newton’s cradle, which makes tasting this wine rather exhausting. There is no sense of composure or relaxation here, yet the overriding flavour is terrific. This vintage is restless as it has yet to find any equilibrium, and the scale and dryness of the tannins evince this. They appear to pinball around the finish with little regard for the fruit notes, so I advise staying well clear for at least ten years to allow this wine to find its centre and rearrange its constituent parts. 18.5+/20
2005 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
There is a powerful tsunami of fruit here and it is almost immediately oaky and muscular in equal measure. This ripe, glossy, almost bullying vintage imposes itself on one’s palate and dictates terms rather than allowing you to approach slowly and step carefully into the fray. Less complex than the 2004 version, this is a soupier style with some molasses and coconut coming through, making it less elegant and more combative than I would like. If the volume can be turned down over the next decade, this wine might find a sense of equilibrium, but I fear it is too structured and hot-fruited. 18+/20
2006 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
While the first puff of aroma reveals mintiness and touches of oak resin, which acts as a slight warning mechanism in my brain, there is no need to worry because these traits quickly recede into the body of the fruit. Here, one finds serious dark depths of blackberry and blackcurrant with more obvious skin tannins than I have seen in this vertical collection. These spectacular tannins set the scene for a staggeringly beautiful performance. This is not a loud or fast-moving wine but a balletic movement with refinement, grace and extraordinary power at its core. There is no need for 2006 Bin 389 to boast about its qualities because they are here to be admired, and these elements have already coalesced into a magnificent being. Please be patient because this vintage is a long way off blossoming, and I can guarantee that this will be a sight not to be missed. 19.5+/20
2007 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
With bullrushes and rattan notes on the nose, this wine initially feels lacking in basic fruit succulence, yet on the palate, there is a firm body of cool minty fruit that seems somewhat closed and immovable. I want to sense more harmony and generosity, but this is a mute style that has yet to find its voice. The finish is a little muddy and short, and this needs work! The tannins are compact and solid, but they, too, need to be unravelled. All the elements are here, and none seem like they want to play ball, but I will give this 2007 the benefit of the doubt because it is a baby, and time will undoubtedly cure all. At present, this is an underwhelming wine in this company, but I am not moved to unleash a ‘?’, so there must be something positive about to happen. 18+/20
2008 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
This is an exotic wine with wild, decadent florals, hints of Turkish Delight, new carpentry, and fresh mint leaves on the nose. And it works! While this might be a little too pheromonal for some, I find this a fascinating wine with kaleidoscopic appeal, and while it might not appeal to fans of quieter, more considered wines, it is genuine fun, and it is also rather sexy and racy. Another plus point is that you can conceivably drink it now, which has got to be a plus, as the fruit is so expressive! Mind you, it will run and run if you want. 19+/20
2009 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
There is a curious beetroot / vegetal tone on the nose, which is not unpleasant, but it certainly marks this as a uniquely perfumed wine in this line-up. The fruit is sleek, violet-tinged and spicy, with frictive tannins and a spicy, dusty finish and while this tasting note might make you feel I don’t quite like this wine, I am drawn into the palate as it makes for a fascinating journey of discovery. This is one to watch: Earth-bound and vampiric, and the Bandol-like dimensions give it an appeal like no other vintage in this collection. 18.5+/20
2010 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
Awesome – this is another staggering tour de force. Youthful, rakish, swaggering and in complete control of its destiny, this is a thrilling Bin 389, and it is just peeping out from behind the curtain, so goodness knows how long it will age for given its impeccable set of tannins. While the fruit is fabulously ripe, there is a cool edge that freshens the senses, and the oak is firm and commanding but allows every inch of the fruit to be admired. This is epic winemaking and a beautiful wine. 19.5+/20
2012 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
There is a saline tang here that brings a curious tension to the fruit both on the nose and the palate, and it seems to flatten the fruit and add an extra dimension of earthiness to the soul of this wine. It also appears to dry out the fruit and heighten the impact of the tannins, which might otherwise seem dusty and demure. The earthiness partners with some of the oak tannins, and these bring an outback appeal to the fruit, which seems more cinnamon-spiced and star anise-pricked. Will it soften in time? No. But will it add detail and allure? Without a doubt. 18.5+/20
2013 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
This is a firm, actively tannic wine with a lot of astringency crammed right up against the windscreen, making it hard to see out. Muscle, rippling; fruit, proud; tannins, urgent; balance, not on your Nelly. While every opposing element is somewhat unhinged in this wine, the only saving grace is time. Given another decade, I feel this will still have a punk-stance on the palate and a provocative attitude and, assuming you pair it with the right people and the appropriate grub, you won’t go too far wrong. Don’t expect any cooing because I anticipate the reaction to this wine will be shock and awe. 18.5+/20
2014 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
By contrast to the malevolent 2013, this 2014 vintage is positively charming. Ripe, suave, controlled, and grand, the oak budget seems to have doubled, and more, in 2014, as this is the most obviously upholstered wine of the collection. I know legions of Brits that would fall at this wine’s feet given its glorious, expansive liquorice and black fruit flavours. It has a Super-Tuscan glossiness, which is hard to ignore. While it might come across as a caricature of this great label to some, this is a classic example of the vintage speaking through this wine, and Bin 389 has interpreted the conditions with expertise and precision. I love this style, and while you will not get a visit from the wine police for opening this wine too young, as the fruit is just so alluring right now, it will improve immeasurably over time, making this a keen collector’s item. 19+/20
2016 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
This wine’s depth and sophistication demands respect from the very first moment it collides with your senses. Sooty tannins swarm, coating the palate and providing the luxurious fruit with much-needed traction. This has the effect of slowing the momentum of this vehicle down so that you have an opportunity to admire the inner workings of this potent wine. Inside, the engine sports a twin-turbo, purring and ready to catapult itself off the grid when required. But the lights will not go out for ten, perhaps twenty years. 2016 Bin 389 feels like a wine made from 707 and St Henri ingredients, such is its build-quality, and this makes it not so much a mind-blowing Bin 389 (which it is) but a kind of carbon-fibre, cyborg-style upgrade for one year only. Atypical and astonishingly attractive, this is one of my all-time favourite Bin 389s. 19.5+/20
2018 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
A crème de mure attraction on the nose here seems a little OTT, but it is superbly well-balanced when you sink your teeth into this wine. There are enough herb, leaf and bark notes here to keep this vehicle on the right side of the law. While the oak is certainly present, it does not trouble the profound fruit intensity, allowing it to tumble across the palate, coating every taste bud liberally, and then rebound and wash over your senses again. Seriously hedonistic right now, this is fearfully young wine with all to play for in the future. 19++/20
2019 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
This is a more open wine than the 2018 one, and it is also less dense and tannic. This means you can have a jolly good stroll around and look at it from all angles without worrying. The result is a firm, athletic wine with dark cherry notes, bright red hints, and lashings of spice, but it presents a kindly air, and this means that it is a rare Bin 389 that, at only five years of age, can reasonably be tasted, swallowed and adored. I feel its purple patch will occur in fifteen years, but you need not feel guilty about sneaking a bottle from the cellar for a preview should you feel an overriding sense of temptation. 18/20
2020 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
Bright, spicy, delicious, and lip-smacking, this is an alluring wine, and it keeps the door open for just long enough for you to inspect the density of fruit and silkiness on offer. Red, blue, black and purple are the colours hauled up this mast, and they all play their part in a somewhat demonic summer pudding of delight. The spiciness is not particularly apparent, and while the oak is present, it is not drying, nor is it toasty. This is a genial Bin 389, built for the medium term, and, like 2019, you could be forgiven for opening a bottle earlier in its lifetime than virtually any other vintage in this line-up. With harmony and freshness and lighter tannins that gently scour the palate instead of rake, this is a beginner’s Bin 389 and ought to welcome more acolytes to the fold. 18/20
2021 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
The volume of perfume on the nose here is impressive, as are the ripeness and layers of exotic spices and black liquorice. This vintage is aromatic, and these enchanting flavours carry through onto the palate without missing a beat. And then, it shuts down. After the initial enjoyment and full brigade of tannins charge down, pull the plug on the party and set up camp, refusing any more moisture from jousting with your senses. After two conversational vintages (2019 & 2020), this is a more formal and strict wine that demands respect and gets it. 18.5+/20
2022 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
The 2022 is a firm wine with a completely closed stance, and the fruit feels constricted, inert and motionless. It is super-youthful and virtually tastes like a barrel sample, such is the rigidity and dryness on the palate. But there is a glimmer of hope because the nose offers an insight into what is buried deep in the dark recesses of this wine. With vigorous swirling, it is possible to crowbar open the vault of flavour enough to catch a glimpse of seriously attractive black fruit glinting in the distance. This may be one of the most slow-moving and venerable wines of all, given time, but we will have to wait at least twenty years to find out. 19++/20
DAY 2 MORNING & AFTERNOON
Penfolds Grange Shiraz
1952 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
The perfume is immediately impeccable and Mariana Trench-deep. This is one of the oldest Shiraz I have ever tasted, and given that it is such a legendary wine, the concern is that it might somehow not offer up what it is capable of. I need not worry; this is a stellar bottle, and the fruit and finish are astonishing. The layers of spice and fruit are precise and interwoven, with no spare threads visible. The length of the finish is incredible. While respectfully venerable and wholly tertiary, the fruit notes are still bright and energetic. Leather, salted caramel, tobacco, prune and fig notes cradle darker, more mischievous tones, and the tannins are still frictive and alive. This is a perfect wine, and it will continue to evolve, and that alone is frankly incredible. This is 13.6% alcohol (high for the time), and two hours later, it was still swirling and billowing in the glass. 21/20 (Yeah, I know, but it’s my score for ’47 Cheval Blanc, too)
1953 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
With a slightly stale nose and considerable bitterness on the palate, this is a less appealing wine than the 1952. This time, the roof appears to have collapsed on the cottage, and while the walls remain undeterred, the body of this creation has caved in, leaving sourness and hints of salinity that conspire to remove any remaining fruit notes from the palate. There are remnants of a great wine here, in the form of dried herb, plum skin and Bual Madeira tones, but this is essentially a sarcophagus of a wine. Accordingly, it is impossible to attribute a meaningful score here, so mine reflects the experience instead of the absolute flavour. 12.8% alcohol and 13% Cabernet. 17.5/20
1955 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
Not dissimilar to the 1953 in core flavour, there are broader shoulders here and a shade more fruit, too. And this is a powerful style; while it is super-old and definitely square-cut, this is a remarkable wine. The fruit has slipped away, but the silhouette of greatness remains. It will not improve, per se, but this is a staggeringly delicious experience. 18.5/20
1962 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
The nose here is incredible. Direct, bright, fruit-forward and linear. The palate is lithe, sour and crunchy, and the tannins are sensational, teasing, active, fit and bustling. While the fruit has faded, it has not collapsed, and there is an unmistakable claret-style signature here, which is remarkable. While the finish shows faint hints of toffee and yeastiness, the nose is entirely captivating, and this perfume is largely responsible for my excitable score. Only 12.2% alcohol. 19/20
1963 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This is another example of a magnificent perfume. Groaning humidors, stacks of old hymn books and piles of Harris tweed bring detail, but the summer pudding notes are thrilling, and there is life in this old dog. There is even a degree of fruit sweetness that lingers, enabling the finish to roll on for minutes without dipping or losing momentum. This is a more earth-driven wine throughout, and while this ought to sap the power from the fruit, the mulberry and plum tones are undeterred and vital. This is an extraordinary wine. It is a sensational David Niven in a world of Dick Emerys. 19.5/20
1965 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
A little more blunt and saline and with some slight overripe tones coming through, coupled with hints of balsamic, this is a superb vintage, but it seems a little out of balance and on its last legs. The effort is there, and it seems to want to push all the buttons to impress, but the core fruit and integrity are a little lacking. Callard & Bowser and ‘old shoes’ notes abound, and while this is nostalgic and curiously attractive, it is not as vinous nor fruit-soaked as I would like. 18.5/20
1966 Penfolds Grange Shiraz (from a bottle signed by its winemaker Max Schubert!)
Wow, unlike the 1965, this wine shows no bruised fruit and manifests its power from a large slice of elemental earth that sits at its heart. The nose is all-consuming and colossally beautiful. But it is a game of three halves. The mid-palate is old, somewhat worn, and hammock-like, with browning fruit and tar, and then the finish shows heroic tannins and a desire to power up and keep the engine running for a further decade. This would be a near-perfect wine if the mid-palate were a little juicier and more youthful. A second bottle shows more mid-palate depth and overall volume of flavour and my score has leapt up a whole point! 19/20
1967 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
I am flabbergasted here. There are primary fruit notes on the nose, and while they will undoubtedly fall away with aeration, this is a buoyant, bouncy and energetic wine. Unlike the 1966, there is no dip in the middle and the tannins are crisp, challenging and deliciously louche. This seems a decade younger than its vintage, and the gentle strawberry and rhubarb notes give it a jaw-dropping delicacy and vibrancy. 19.5/20
1971 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
There are faint hints of red fruit that stand tall and remain aloft throughout the experience, making this a silky and indulgent wine. Spice and pepper are liberally dusted throughout the palate, bringing a mouth-watering effect; coupled with the tannins, a youthful aura surrounds this wine. There are fractures and frailties in the mid-palate integrity, but there is so much noise surrounding these fissures that they are largely imperceptible. I feel this wine will roll forward for a further decade with ease. A second and third bottles were opened in a quest for perfection, and while the second was binned, the third showed even more density of flavour and bigger, broader tannins. This vintage includes the first appearance of Coonawarra fruit in the blend. 19.5+/20
1975 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This is a sour style, and it resembles an old-school Barolo with overwhelming bitterness and tautness of fruit that makes it harder to enjoy than the wines on either side. The fruit shows gravy-like hints and fades fast, while the tannins are brutal, scouring the palate and looking all-consuming. 18?/20
1976 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This is the first vintage that shows bright red and black fruit on the nose, among more aged characters, and it seems to benefit from these characteristics with a riper mid-palate and overall volume of flavour. Not surprisingly, the tannins are broad and crunchy, making this a wondrous wine with velvety notes and glorious length. It is a superbly crafted wine with awesome presence. 20/20
1978 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
The colour here is dark, and there are only faint tinges of copper on the rim. Again, blackberry hints and Morello cherry notes find their way to the front of the palate and impress. The fruit is silky and resonant, and the finish is long, savoury and not too drying. This is a phenomenal wine, given its age, and a mass of energy here shows no signs of flagging. What it lacks in elegance, it makes up for in gusto. It will continue to improve. 19/20
1982 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This is the first wine in the line-up that resembles a modern-day Grange on the nose. The colour shows some browning, but the nose is fruit-forward and boisterous. Oyster shell and seaweed notes join forces with pepper tones to bring more complexity to the perfume, and this leads to a full-bodied, ripe palate with some walnut and fig notes followed by a wave of black fruit. The tannins are bright and cleansing, and while it is approaching its perfect period for drinking, it has plenty of life ahead of it. While this is a complete wine, it lacks the heroism of the very finest wines. 18.5+/20
1983 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
There is a burnt sugar / meat glaze note on the nose that I find somewhat off-putting, and the finish is singed, sour and brackish. It falls away, leaving very little fruit at all. This is either a bad bottle or the vintage has already lost its way (which I suspect is unlikely). 16?/20
1986 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
There is a tremendous volume of flavour on the nose here, and it appears youthful, strident and purposeful. Oak leads the way, and the fruit density perfectly matches the richness and ripeness of the carpentry. The finish is a little short and cramped, and it doesn’t live up to the vigorous introduction. A second bottle showed a marked improvement in mid-palate density and length of finish. In fact, it doubles the impact of the flavour in the back end of this wine, which means the tannins are, accordingly, more vibrant and challenging. This is a very firm and youthful wine at 38 years of age, which in itself is truly remarkable, and I don’t think this vintage will get anywhere near its drinking window for at least a decade. 19.5+/20
1989 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
The spice market nose here shows a broader range of herbs and flowers than expected, bringing a degree of exoticism to this wine. The palate is juicy and generous, and as the corners have already been knocked off, there is a fluidity that I have not seen so far in this collection. This is the friendly face of Grange, and you can crack on now, assuming you can cope with the powerful tannins that dominate the finish. These tannins will protect this wine for many years, but I think it might be advisable to catch this vintage earlier rather than later to wallow in the fabulous fruit. 19/20
1990 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
Dense, powerful and pensive, this is a muscular wine with a raw and menacing edge. The tannins are bitter and combative, and they frame a sanguineous mid-palate crammed with flick-knife sharp fruit notes. Oak plays a cautionary role here, with its beams framing the fruit and repelling invaders. My sense is that this will end up being a remarkable wine, but it needs a long time to assimilate the more severe components found here. 20++/20
1991 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This wine could quite easily be related to the great wines of Hermitage. The pepper and spice notes are thrilling, and they are perfectly balanced on stunning, cool, earthy foundations. The fruit is elegant, honed and epically pure. I absolutely love this wine’s tenderness and accuracy, and while it is slightly atypical in that it doesn’t show any of the Grange muscularity, it is a thrilling vintage. 19.5/20
1992 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
From the elegant 1991 to a completely different kettle of fish! This 1992 is raw, angry and challenging, with unresolved tannins, lashings of sour skin and hard, unyielding oak. The fruit is just about up to the task of balancing the astringency here, but it will take an eternity to soften. The big question is, will it find its equilibrium one day? I am not entirely convinced it will. 18.5++?/20
1993 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
Mick Jagger – Brown Sugar. There is a mountain of Demerara piled atop this wine! And when you dive into the fruit beneath, it appears unusually ripe, bruised and fleshy. It is all a little too obvious and showy for my tastes, and the finish doesn’t linger long enough. 16.5?/20 A second bottle was ordered, which was far more centred and controlled. There is a touch of over-ripeness, but the finish is decent and grainy, and the overt sweetness is not apparent. 18/20
1994 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This is a direct descendant of the stunning 1991, only with more bitterness and grip on the finish. While it is a little less elegant and polished, and there is an urgency concerning the fruit impact that makes it appear restless and irritated, we have woken it up from its slumber ten years too early. A lip-smacking salinity offsets some of the riper fruit notes, making this a fascinating wine. 19+/20
1995 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
Tough, sour and tannic, this is a difficult wine to assess because the tannins are so raw and cheek-sucking. I don’t feel there is a corresponding vault of fruit here to balance the astringency, so this is a rare vintage that seems just too hard for its own good. Of course, things will change over the next decade or two, but I think this will always be an angular wine. 18++/20
1996 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
There is a minty element here that perhaps signals the involvement of a decent slug of Coonawarra fruit. The perfume is delightful, even though the oak tries its best to hog the spotlight. The palate shows a little too much greenery and fruit sweetness, which might indicate a hotter year that was attempted to be ‘corrected’ with the addition of cooler fruit. The result is a truck and trailer feel that I cannot see past. 18+?/20 A second bottle was opened, showing no disconnects between the constituent fruit elements, resulting in a much smoother and more mellifluous experience. Gone is the stark mint note, and in its place, there is a fabulous and intricate mesh of herbal tones which invigorate the palate. The finish is beautiful, too, with fine-tuned tannins and up-lifting bitterness. Glorious. 19.5+/20
1997 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
Herbaceous and slightly confected and chemical, this is a very odd wine with a funky perfume and a lot of oak. The palate is too juicy and sweet, suggesting some overripe fruit might be involved. The overall balance is out of kilter, and the tannins try their best to tilt the experience towards a more successful conclusion, but they only end up making it more clumsy and hot. 17+?/20 A second bottle was opened, and while it is not a great vintage by any stretch of the imagination, it was leagues ahead of the first wine with a decent framework, sturdy fruit and a shortish finish. 17.5+/20
1998 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
We are back on track with this mighty wine. At twenty-six years of age, it looks like a toddler in the glass, with tense black fruit, stunning liquorice details and a mighty, earthy finish. What I like most about this vintage is that the oak sits down in the glass, and the tannins are mesmeric, respectful and well-marshalled. It needs a decade, but it is already looking perfectly well-balanced. This is a super Grange. 19+/20
1999 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
There is a mintiness here that is quite dominant, but it manages to harmonise with the fruit, making this a chocolatey, fondant vintage with an air of exoticism. The tannins are clean and fresh and appear fruit and mint-derived, which means they fit perfectly on the end of this wine. The chassis has a coolness and sleekness about it, and while it will undoubtedly live for a couple more decades, this is a rare wine that can easily be opened and enjoyed today. 19/20
2000 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
Ripe, spicy, densely fruited and slick, this is an unmistakable hot-climate wine, and the tannins and baked fruit notes err on the side of a Christmas pudding, but they, thankfully, don’t get fully submerged. This is a showy wine, and it lacks genuine grace and definition, but it certainly makes itself heard on the palate, and the tannins are firm but pliable enough to feel comfortable opening this wine now, assuming it sees plenty of time in a decanter before being poured. 18.5+/20
2001 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This large-framed, powerful wine has an all-consuming/brooding sense of muscularity and spice. The alcohol level feels too elevated for my tastes, leaving a wasabi-hot feel on the finish that will most likely dissipate with age. It is far too early to drink this wine, as almost every element of its construction feels raw and unfinished. Ten years will not be enough, and twenty might be needed to allow this massive wine to calm down. 18++/20 A second bottle reveals a more sensitive perfume and none of the heat that swamped the palate in the first bottle. This is still a rich wine, but there is control and breeding here. The missing element is time. 19++/20
2002 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This is a calm, cool, and extraordinarily savoury vintage, and it creeps up on you before you unroll its tapestry of flavours. Everything is sotto voce here, and I find this intriguing and alluring until the tannins turn up late in the day and the fruit begins disassembling the good work it has done on the palate. Some might say this is approaching its drinking window because the fruit appears quieter and more pliable, but I venture it needs another five years minimum to allow the tannins to recede enough to reveal the tender fruit hidden in its folds. 19.5+/20
2003 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
2003 is an uncharacteristically foreshortened wine with a blunt perfume and an even blunter palate. A hint of intrigue is hidden in the middle of the palate, but neutral fruit and glycerine appear to dull the overall effect, leaving your palate barren. I am unsure where the fruit has gone and fear it will not return. 17?/20
2004 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
A darker colour and deeper perfume put us back on track in 2004. Hints of charred oak and meaty tannins give this wine a sturdy, non-nonsense attitude, but this is tempered by particularly lusty black fruit notes drape over the palate, lending a majestic air to proceedings. I am particularly keen on this vintage because it goes about its business in a calm and near-silent manner, is fully confident in its abilities, and shows considerable innate balance. It is also one of the most forward-drinking wines of the noughties. 19/20
2005 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
Spice-laden and earth-drenched, this is a hotter, earthier style that appears to lack fruit subtlety and sophistication, it being a more blocky and four-square wine. Meaty notes and wild herbs make this a more sauvage Grange, and while I can appreciate its attack, the untamed fruit notes coupled with the strident oak make this a rather uncompromising and ungainly wine. 18+/20
2006 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This is a much more civilised and controlled wine in comparison to the unpolished 2005 vintage. A little quiet and red-fruit-centric, this is a ‘lighter’ and more melodic style that doesn’t appear to want to confront the senses with anything more than a gentle hug. The tannins are fine-grained and polite, and this means you can reasonably crack on now, and it will hold for a good decade and more with careful cellaring. 19/20
2007 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This vintage has a slight back-to-front feel, which is unusual, given that the tannins come in early and recede while the flavour is still on the palate. This is an earthy wine with a distinct lack of fruit clarity, and the oak seems a little leaden-footed. A rare misstep for Grange. It was made from 95% Barossa fruit. 17.5/20
2008 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This wine has a full complement of fruit, oak, spice, earth and sunshine, harmonising perfectly into a textbook Grange. There is also generosity and charm, with lovely ripe fruit and serious balance. The tannins are powerful but not astringent, and they will allow this wine to roll on for years without missing a beat. Gorgeous and well-balanced, this is set for a long life and is likely to be regarded as a superstar in decades to come. 19.5++/20
2009 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This is another terrific wine, and it is another debonair ‘9’! It is incredible how the nines seem so pure and honed, with an air of calm and control that romances the senses and doesn’t require any adrenalin to be released into the system as it caresses the senses with pastoral grace and gentility. The tannins are remarkably refined, and while it appears to be already drinking well, there is so much more to come. 19+/20 A second bottle showed a little more vivacity, but I liked the first, so there is little more to add.
2010 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
Wow, this is an explosive wine with a fanfare of epic fruit and punchy tannins. It is so youthful and tense, and the fruit is amazingly closed and reluctant, but I can see incredible detail through the keyhole, and it will emerge slowly over the ensuing decades. Sensational and multifaceted, this is a stunning and titanic wine. It seems to be cut from the same cloth as the remarkable 1990, and it will last a lifetime. 20+/20
2011 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This is a very unusual wine with an awkward stance on the palate and a blunt, woody feel on the finish. It lacks clarity and bounce, and a herbaceous, almost dried leaves sensation pushes the time-honoured Autumnal descriptor into a more mulchy, near-rotten zone. Harsh, I know, but not for me. No Score
2012 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
With a stunningly complete nose loaded with glisteningly clean berry notes, this hugely expressive wine conveys virtually all its message in the first few seconds of discovery. Spellbindingly complex with a vast array of fruit, spice, chypre, oak and earth, this is one of the most well-balanced and enjoyable wines in the entire line-up. The tannins are impeccable, elevating the wine further on the palate, making it seem even more aerial and resonant. You can drink it now, such is the silkiness, and yet the tannins are so discreet it is misleading to think that this wine is anywhere near its window. If possible, wait until at least 2035 to open a bottle. This is a vintage that really appeals to my palate! 20/20
2013 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
A fiery attack of fruit here seems too muscular and solid right now. The oak appears to join forces with the rawness and lividity of the fruit, and this only serves to heighten the assault on the senses. The finish is lava-like and sour and the tannins are brutal, taking a layer off my tongue and setting alarm bells ringing throughout my senses. But, and this is a big but, it seems to work. You will need the patience of a saint to wait until this wine calms down enough to drink it, but when this event occurs, I venture this will be an astonishing, if unnerving, event. 19++/20
2014 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
There is unmistakable plushness and luxuriousness here that immediately commands your undivided attention. This is a prime example of a wine that gives the illusion of drinking even though it is a baby, and this is because the fruit is so ripe and pliable that it charms every taste bud instantly. What it lacks in fine detail, it makes up for in succulence, and the oak manages to harmonise with the glossy fruit, making the experience even more enjoyable. It’s stunning and obvious, but that’s not a bad thing when the fruit is this glorious! 19.5+/20
2015 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This is a hotter and spicier wine with a slightly sour edge that conspires to eliminate any moisture on the palate. The tannins are bloody and iron-soaked, which compounds the difficulty of seeking pleasure in this wine. The oak is also resinous and hard, and it fails to soften and aerate the wine, making it harder still. But this is a classically shaped, powerful Grange, and the reason it seems like an outlier is because the previous few vintages have been more genial and expressive. 18.5+/20
2016 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
Darker-hued and more mineral-soaked, this feels like a much more introverted style of Grange than the red-fruited, more harmonious wines. The oak elements here are sensational, with a warm, cake-spice appeal that brings moments of levity to the brooding mid-palate. The finish is surprisingly open and accessible despite the scale of the tannins, making this a wine with distinct chapters and a fabulous crescendo on the finish. This is a brilliant wine with a Pomerol-like gloss, and while it looks like it will start drinking in ten years, it won’t stop evolving for a further 20 or 30! 19.5+/20
2017 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
I am getting a complex about the 7s; this wine does nothing to dispel my hex on these wines. Angular, awkward, edgy and incomplete, the oak looks fresh-sawn, the fruit seems grainy and unpolished, and there is a sooty suspension that screws up the texture such that it fails to glide across the palate. Confusing and convoluted, this is a tricky wine that cannot convince me to give it a meaningful score. 18+/20
2018 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
The 2018 vintage is very closed and rather hermit-like, and while I can see the shape and scale of flavour here, the carapace of fruit is almost impenetrable. Blueberry, five spice and iodine notes are liberally scattered among the darker, more knavish fruit flavours, but they don’t show any give, remaining upright and belligerent on the palate. There is just enough flesh showing to indicate a wine of sensational promise, but I cannot, hand on heart, predict if this will turn into a genuine superstar or maintain its current course of near-excellence. 19.5++/20
2019 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
Cool, calm and considered, this is yet another ‘9’ that seems gentlemanly and polished, just pipping the massive 2018 because of its finesse and detail. This might all change in due course, but I like the elemental appeal of this wine as well as its sleek, cool lines and stunningly long finish. Granted, it might not be a crowd-pleaser, but there is a wondrous conundrum of fruit here that keeps one guessing, and this is what I look for in truly engaging wines. 19.5+/20
2020 Penfolds Grange Shiraz
This is a quiet, closed and rather shy wine with more anti-fruit than fruit. I have never tasted a young Grange as introverted as this beguiling 2020. All the Grange hallmarks are there, and it will trundle along for a couple of decades looking youthful and eventually turn a corner around 2050 when it declares, presumably in hushed tones, that it is ready to receive guests. Always fascinating and, in 2020, a character like no other wine in this awesome vertical. 100% Shiraz. 19++/20
Penfolds Special Bins
2004 Penfolds Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon
This is a hot, spicy, sweet, sour Barossa cowboy Cabernet with a tang of dry earth and wild herbs over a butcher’s block palate. This is a little too much of a caricature for my tastes, but if you allow nostalgia to swamp your senses, you can forgive the foreboding game reserve notes, order a massive, rare steak and get on with it. 18/20
2004 Penfolds Bin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley Shiraz
There is a wild edge to this wine that manages to spoil the party for me, and I cannot see past this character, so I find it very hard to write any more. A second bottle was proffered, and it was completely different, with none of the faults and masses of ripe, brooding and clean fruit. This brilliant wine has an overriding sense of grand terroir underpinning the delicious blackberry and black cherry fruit. It is just about drinking and will slowly evolve for a further 20 years. 19+/20
2008 Penfolds Bin 620 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz
This is a powerful, terra rossa-soaked wine with a massive whoosh of raw tannins and fierce fruit, hard, tangy, minty, and unyielding. It is amazing to think that this is 16 years old, and yet it seems like a barrel sample, such is the attack of fruit and scale of tannins on board. It needs another 20 or more years to relax, and when it does, I am confident it will be recognised as another landmark wine in the great pantheon of Cab/Shiraz. 19++/20
2010 Penfolds Bin 170 Kalimna Block 3C Shiraz
Given Penfolds has made its name by layering flavour via intricate blending, this is a fabulous opportunity to taste a wine with a singular character that is as pure and sonorous as any Penfolds wine I have tasted. This gives me a rare opportunity to inspect the precise character of this Block, and it has a peculiar skill of tasting pure and violet-y while also carrying a considerable amount of juiciness. On the one hand, it is slender and direct and on the other, luxurious and heady, making it a fascinating creation, and it is drinking now. 19/20
2016 Penfolds Bin 111A Clare Valley Barossa Valley Shiraz
This is a powerful, direct, muscular wine with a hard granitic edge that gives it a profoundly penetrative character. The tannins are rigid and immovable, and while they need to soften considerably to allow this wine to declare its drinking window open, it is still possible to see just how delicious and impressive this fruit is. Mulberry-soaked, stunningly dry, and brittle, I really like this purity, and I cannot wait to see this bottle again. 19/20
2018 Penfolds Superblend 802.A Cabernet Shiraz
The oak seems to sit on top of this wine, cramping the fruit and making it appear too sour and perfumed. I first tasted this back in 2021, and it looked ungainly and forced, and nothing seems to have changed. It is too concentrated and intense for my tastes. 18.5++?/20
2018 Penfolds Superblend 802.B Cabernet Shiraz
This is much more elegant and relaxed, and the oak seems integrated, and it calms the exuberance of the fruit, bringing a more civilised air with more obvious complexity and control. It is still a baby, with raw, unfinished edges that need a decade or more to assimilate into the whole, but all the elements are here for greatness. 19.5++/20
2021 Penfolds Bin 180 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz
This wine has a stunning nose, thrilling blackcurrant coulis concentration, and a sensational pliable texture. I adore the freshness and crispness of the tannins, and they are perfectly judged on the finish, allowing the fruit to waltz around the palate at will. There is filigree detail everywhere you look in this wine and there is not a molecule out of place. I cannot fault this wine’s accuracy or its delivery, and it already shows sensational balance. 20/20
Penfolds g3 (2008, 2012, 2014)
There has always been a fruit coulis feel about this wine, with concentrated fruit notes and lashings of dark chocolate, too. It is massive; there are no two ways about it. It is also remarkably balanced and savoury. When I first tasted this wine back in 2017, I remember thinking it would take an eternity to find a sense of equilibrium, but it has certainly evolved and harmonised over the intervening seven years. A cigar box and mineral-soaked density here is all-consuming, and I don’t think it will start to come around after I am long gone, but perhaps around my 80th! 19.5++/20
Penfolds g4 (2002, 2004, 2008, 2016)
This has always been the bluntest instrument in the g-series, which remains the case today. It is a flatter, broader, and less expressive wine, and I feel the blend is not as happy as it could be. Having said this, it is still a ball-busting piece of work, and I wonder whether it will ever soften. 19++/20
Penfolds g5 (2010, 2012, 2014, 2016, 2018)
This is stellar. I have already expounded on this wine at length on this website, and I adore its generosity and expanse of flavour. It is far more than a sum of its parts, and I find it truly breathtaking. 20++/20
MJ Score Protocol – I have attached my scores out of 20 for every wine. In addition, I have included my score conversion chart for those of you who are into medals, stars or 100-point scores. If a score has no ‘+’, this indicates a wine that is in balance and can be drunk relatively young thanks to its precocity and charm. One’ +’ indicates a wine that will benefit from medium-term ageing (following the style of the wine), while two ‘++’ suggests a wine that should manage to make the long haul, softening and evolving as it goes.
