Wednesday Wines – Episode 224 – A Beautiful Bunch of Rosés
I have tasted more new-release rosés than ever this year. The 2023 samples started arriving before Christmas, which, if you stop and think about it, is lightning-fast fermentation, bottling and shipping! There is seemingly an ever-increasing demand, and wineries are more anxious than ever to supply. However, there is definitely more dull and dreary rosé than ever on our shelves, and as prices creep up inexorably, perceived value, in my honest opinion, is at an all-time low. I have found eight wines from a range of countries, retailers and price bands that all float my rosé boat. Happy Summer.
2021 Black Chalk, Wild Rose, Hampshire, England (£45.00, www.blackchalkwine.co.uk).
Made from 55% Pinot Meunier, 31% Pinot Noir, and 14% Chardonnay, it is 12% alcohol and has a 5.2 g/L dosage. This is one of the most delicious and enticing young English sparkling rosés I have tasted. The nose is haunting and impossibly attractive, and it does the impossible by smelling juicy! The palate follows in the same vein. This young wine is already up and running and is clearly made from elite ingredients!
2023 Château Beaulieu, Cuvée Alexandre, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, France (£19.95 per bottle & £34.95 per magnum, sold by the case only, www.finewinedirect.co.uk).
I am a massive fan of this wine, and not only have I written about it on many occasions, but I have also selected it for a couple of super-star restaurant wine lists for whom I consult. In addition, it has formed the backdrop to many a party, and this new 2023 sits right at the top of the pile. It is great to find a top-flight rosé for under twenty quid, but I would urge you to seek out the magnums, which look ridiculous value at £35!
2023 Le Rêve Rosé, Côtes de Provence by Jonathan Maltus, France (The 2022 vintage is £29.60 per bottle and £60.00 per magnum www.honestgrapes.co.uk).
I wrote up this wine’s 2022 (debut) vintage last year, and Jonathan kindly sent me a very early preview of his delightful 2023. I am certain this builds on the grace and beauty of last year’s wine. My only frustration is that while I am keen for everyone to taste it, the leading stockist, Honest Grapes, seems to be still selling the 2022 (and these are the prices quoted above). Please register your interest if you want to secure some of this wine when it arrives! There is an invigorating ozone freshness here, making it so much more refreshing than the bigger, weightier wines that appear en vogue right now. There is admirable cadence on the palate alongside unbridled class and this mid-palate crams in more silky rhubarb and red cherries than any other wine in this article.
2023 Pasqua, 11 Minutes, Odi et Amo, Verona, Italy (15.99, reduced to £11.99 in a Mix Six, www.majestic.co.uk).
Made from a blend of 50% Corvina, 25% Trebbiano, 25% Syrah and 10% Carmenère, this is a wine I have written up before, and it appeals to me because it takes a sideways glance at the rosé category and comes up with the goods. It is disarmingly cheap, so 11 Minutes is an ideal party wine, and while its name refers to the length of skin contact required to leach out the delicate colour, I have always thought it is the precise time it takes to down a bottle! With a completely different feel to all the other Provence wines, which is not surprising given its ingredients, there is terrific abrupt acidity and fresh herb notes under bright, crunchy red fruit. Give it a whirl.
2023 Château Minuty, Rose et Or, Côtes de Provence, France (£28.00 per bottle, £59.00 per magnum, www.clos19.com; £28.00, www.harveynichols.com).
I tasted all the 2023 Minuty wines, and this was my favourite (by a mile)! Made from 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Tibouren and drawn from three distinctly different terroirs (schist, clay, and sand), it has an inbuilt complexity that shines in the glass. My instinctive tasting note for this wine, scribbled down when I attacked a vast flight of rosés, was ‘more interesting, layered and cool’, and these descriptors in combination sum up why this wine stuck its hand up. The fruit is extremely delicate, yet there is talcy minerality and stunning detail underneath this refined exterior. This is one of the most intriguing rosés of the year.
2023 Mirabeau, Pure, Côtes de Provence Rosé, France (£16.50, Tesco; £16.99, Waitrose; £17.00, Ocado; £16.50, Sainsbury’s).
Everyone knows the Mirabeau brand, and there are a large number of labels these days popping up in all manner of retailers. My favourite has always been ‘Pure’, and in 2023, it shines. This is another elegant wine, and it seems to me that it is the best candidate for a long, lazy afternoon because it is aperitif-fit, can cope with all manner of food, and also keeps you hooked, unlike so many other wines that become boring after a few glasses.
2023 Love by Léoube Organic Rosé, Côtes de Provence Rosé, France (£17.50, reduced to £15.75 each by the case, www.greatwine.co.uk).
In terms of out-and-out value for money, this wine, with its case discount from The Great Wine Co., is utterly spectacular. This 2023 is my favourite ‘Love’ for years, with superb balance and delicious freshness. It has the demeanour of a wine with a much higher price but the reliability, friendliness, and drinkability of a super-hero. ’23 Love is a genuine example of the freedom and joy you find in a wine crafted with true skill and genuine understanding.
2023 Rosé de Château Léoube, Côtes de Provence, France (£55.00, magnum, reduced to £49.50 each by the case, www.greatwine.co.uk).
My second organic 2023 beauty from Léoube is this more structured and main-course-shaped wine. This is a much richer creation than Love, but it doesn’t pile on muscle, preferring to ramp up the flavour intensity. Take advantage of these magnums – once again, the price is incredible, and these mags shine like beacons on a dining room table!