Wednesday Wines – Episode 74 – Two Incredibly Exciting Posh Rosés

Episode 74 – 25th August 2021

Two Incredibly Exciting Posh Rosés

2020 La Fiorita, Ninfalia Rosé, Tuscany, Italy £26.40, www.hedonism.co.uk

Just before I launch into my note on this enchanting Tuscan rosé, two other wines from this fascinating estate are worth mentioning.  Thirty quid is a lot to drop on a Rosso, but it is a snip for a fabulous Brunello and therein lies the trick! 2018 Rosso di Montalcino La Fiorita (£29.80, Hedonism) is made from two vineyards situated on the property, Poggio al Sole and Giardinello and an additional 30% of the fruit that is bought from Poggio d’Arno vineyard.  While this lip-smacking Sangiovese wears a Rosso label, it is, in fact, a declassified Brunello and this undoubtedly accounts for the depth of black-fruited lustiness it displays on the finish. It is also drinking beautifully already, which makes it all the more alluring.  Next, 2015 La Fioriata Brunello di Montalcino (£56.70, Hedonism Wine) which is Brunello proper and yet it has the gravitas and weight of a Reserva!  Made from fruit coming from two of La Fiorita’s four vineyards, this is a stunningly balanced Sangiovese with profound weight, purity and energy. It has none of the stewed oak characteristics or the alcohol heat that I dislike in lesser versions.  Finally, onto my featured wine – the nymph.  This is only the second release of this delicious rosé, and if you look through my WW back catalogue, you will see a review of the 2019 vintage.  Certified organic and picked early to preserve freshness and crispness, this is a fabulous Sangio-rosé.  Delicate, perfumed and uncommonly vibrant, it picks up momentum and uniqueness from its time spent maturing in concrete eggs as opposed to steel tanks or barrels.  La Fiorita notes that this wine ‘hatches’ at Easter time, which is rather cute, and it has made its way to our shelves in time for late summer indulgence.  Pale, tangy and stuffed with sour cherries and rhubarb stalks, this is a rosé unlike any other, and I think it is a wonderful treat for fans of elite rosé wines. 18/20 (Drink now to 2022)

2020 Chateau d’Esclans, Les Clans Rosé, Provence, France £420.00, reduced to £329.70 by the case of six bottles (£54.95 per bottle) www.finewinedirect.co.uk 

It has been fascinating watching Les Clans find its rightful place in the small but perfectly formed pantheon on truly great rosé wines. For the first few vintages of this wine’s release, it had to put up with being Garrus’s less interesting and slightly lighter sibling. But while Garrus received all of the accolades and some perfect scores (from me!), Les Clans never complained. More recently, I have documented in detail Les Clans own character slowing forming and, in the last few vintages, blossoming into a vital individual in this tremendous estate’s portfolio. Last year’s 2019 was a triumphant wine, sultry, sexy, detailed, sophisticated, alluring, forward-drinking and yet blessed with every bit as much glamour and couture as its more structured and more age-worthy, headline-grabbing stablemate, Garrus. In 2020, Les Clans went one step further. It has now introduced even more depth of flavour and length on the finish.  You will no doubt be familiar with just how incredible Whispering Angel and Rock Angel are in 2020. Les Clans takes Rock Angel’s impact and bravado and then elevates this impressive delivery of flavour to an otherworldly level of excitement.  This wine is near perfect in its perfume and also its palate complexity but it is the approachability, given its breeding, which makes this the most astounding Les Clans to date.  19/20 (Drink now to 2024)