Wednesday Wines – Episode 72 – Two Perfect Whites from J&B

Episode 72 – 11th August 2021

Two perfect whites from Justerini & Brooks

As classic as it gets – a beautiful white Burgundy and a sensational German Riesling for summer entertaining (without breaking the bank).

2018 Bourgogne, Blanc, Bachelet Monnot, France (£19.18, www.justerinis.com).

I wrote up the 2017 vintage of this wine in my MoneyWeek column back in January, and it has long sold out, but there are still some magnificent magnums available at an insanely competitive price (£39.67).  The bottles have moved on to 2018, and this is yet another stellar creation from Alexandre and Marc.  While Burgundies with ‘village’ names on the label seem to have sky-rocketed in price over the last few vintages, well-selected generic wines (i.e. those with Bourgogne Blanc or Bourgogne Rouge on the label) offer extraordinary value for money.  This is even more evident if you choose wines that haven’t been subjected to multiple mark-ups (J&B is both the shipper & retailer of this wine).  In flavour terms, this wine could quite easily cost £30 given its perfume, grandeur and length, and I know plenty of wines from less fastidious Domaines that cost £50 and don’t come close to the detail found in this glass.

2017 Piesporter Goldtropfchen, Riesling Kabinett, Schloss Lieser, Thomas Haag, Mosel, Germany (£15.67, www.justerinis.com).

This is only the second time in which Thomas Haag has taken fruit from this incredible vineyard, and yet it feels like he knows every vine inside out.  The purity of fruit is simply exquisite, and the counterpoint between being a wine with immense respect for the past and a scrumptious, modern edge to the racy acidity makes it irresistible.  Lemony, grapey, a touch off-dry, and so long you can set your stopwatch, this is an elite aperitif wine for fans of serious Riesling.   In terms of value for money, this is absolutely insane given that the class, deliciousness and breeding here are all unmistakable.