Episode 70 – 28th July 2021
Three spectacular wines from Feudi di San Gregorio including two new 2020 releases
2020 Falanghina del Sannio, Serrocielo, Feudi di San Gregorio, Campania, Italy (£20.99, www.lokiwine.co.uk; £18.79, www.valvonacrolla.co.uk; £21.90, www.connaughtwinecellars.com).
I love the fact that even though these two newly released whites are at the top of the tree of Feudi, this winery does not feel tempted to blunt its message by spending any money on oak barrels. This is always a huge mistake with wines of this degree of grace and elegance. Made from elite fruit and using a fairly straightforward recipe of stainless steel fermentation and five or so months of lees contact, the result is absolutely mesmerising. Serrocielo (or ‘blue sky’) is thrillingly dry, soaked in volcanic raspiness and faintly exotic. This is a sensational release and one of only a handful of Falanghinas I have tasted which truly reflects Grand Cru sophistication. The merchants mentioned above all list the 2019, but the 2020 is in the country and can certainly be reserved now. I hope you feel tempted because this is a tremendous example of a grape that is often lacklustre and forgettable.
2020 Greco di Tufo, Cutizzi, Feudi di San Gregorio, Campania, Italy (£23.99, www.lokiwine.co.uk; £20.95, www.winedirect.co.uk).
This is always my favourite wine in the Feudi line-up and it is exciting to report that Serrocielo has really pushed Cutizzi in 2020 to even greater heights of glamour and poise. While the Falanghina is chiselled and rapier-sharp, Cutizzi allows itself a little more depth of fruit and a touch of sexiness, too. Greco is a thrilling grape and yet Cutizzi is an otherworldly version of this fascinating grape. While Serrocielo is an elite aperitif and starters wine, Cutizzi is very much a foodie proposition and I cannot recommend it enough. These two whites are sublime, so do everything you can to taste them!
2015 Taurasi, Feudi di San Gregorio, Campania, Italy (£24.95, www.winedirect.co.uk; £23.75, www.hic-winemerchants.com).
I have never recommended a Taurasi from Feudi before, but this wine, with its combination of vintage, age and flair mean that I am compelled to add it to the white duo above on account of its downright deliciousness. Made from the Aglianico grape and coming from the Irpinia sub-region (which enjoys a little more rainfall than other Campanian districts), this is a beautifully accurate wine in terms of flavour and authenticity, and it is also a rare Aglianico that shows control and balance in the tannin department. The tannins are refined, savoury and there is no trace of astringency whatsoever. If you are used to drinking dried out, aggressive Taurasis, then think again – this is a thoroughly civil and generous wine.