2020 Bordeaux En Primeur Report
Episode 7 – Troplong Mondot
2020 Château Troplong Mondot, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, Saint-Émilion
85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc
60% new oak for between 14-16 months
Harvest took place between 3rd – 30th September in two distinct tranches totalling 12 days.
This mercurial vintage seems like a particularly good fit for Troplong Mondot. Aymeric de Gironde’s parcel by parcel, plot by plot, step by step philosophy is paying great dividends and with a new, spectacular winery up and running and a panoramic tasting room all but completed, their timing could not be better – I only hope that they will be able to welcome visitors before too long. With their stylish, layering of fruit, seen through a tri-varietal lens, differing soil types, altitude and orientation, this is a truly kaleidoscopic wine. The nose is brooding, fleshly and wild, with carefree hints of hedgerow berries and flowers as well as deeply exotic tones of spice and musk. They started picking here on the 4th September, then stopped for a while before the Cabernets and one plot of Merlot came in on the 30th of the month – just in the nick of time before the rain came in. This spread of harvesting seems to have locked in stunning freshness (and an impressively low pH) which is countered by the expansive and profound flavours found on the palate. The tannins are beautifully integrated and there is superb concentration here, too, pushing this wine into delicious, carnal places. It will, no doubt, start to drink earlier than usual because the fruit is so all-encompassing and bombastic, but this wine is founded on unshakable acid and tannin, which is in perfect harmony with the fruit, and so this balance will enable it to age extremely confidently, too. I wouldn’t hesitate to move this wine’s classification to ‘A-status’ immediately such is the unquestionable grandeur on display in this vintage. 19+/20
Scores – I have attached my scores out of 20 for each wine. If a score has no ‘+’, this indicates a wine that is in balance and can be drunk relatively young thanks to its precocity and charm. One ‘+’ indicates a wine that will benefit from medium-term ageing (in accordance with the style of the wine), while two ‘++’ indicates a wine that should manage to make the long haul, softening and evolving as it goes. A ‘?’ means that I am unsure about an element within the wine – this will be explained in my note.