Wednesday Wines – Episode 45

Episode 45 – 3rd February 2021

I was fortunate to taste a range of new 2018 Boyer-Martenot whites last week and they were so good that I felt compelled to tell you about them in Wednesday Wines today.   Keenly priced, elite quality and relatively forward, these are unmissable white Burgundies.  Three of these 2018s are available now so do contact Decorum Vintners if you would like to buy them and also if you would like to enquire about those cuvées which have yet to be shipped.  Contact – Rupert Monier Williams, Managing Director, Decorum Vintners (e) rmw@decvin.com (w) www.decvin.com.

Domaine Boyer-Martenot

 2018 Aligoté, Domaine Boyer Martenot £16.00

Calm, controlled and more straight-jacketed than the devastating 2017, this is a surprisingly linear and amazingly bright and clean wine.  Delicious.  17/20

2018 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Chardonnay, Domaine Boyer Martenot £22.00

A thrilling wine, this is one of the most impressive BBs I can remember.  Clean, bright, focussed and beautifully balanced, this wine is clean as a whistle, with heavenly restraint and beauty on display.  It appears to me that this is not just a BB which is cobbled together from leftovers from other lieu-dits but a serious, noble wine in its own right.  It takes me back to a time when Sauzet and others used to make Bourgogne Blancs that turned my head.  Those days are long gone and there is a new BB star in town.  17.5/20

2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Reuchaux, Domaine Boyer Martenot TBC

Tense, saline and actively youthful with more acid attack than obvious fruit, this is a lean and introverted wine which needs time to blossom. While it looks tense and angular right now it is sure to soften in time.   17.5+/20

2018 Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Le Cailleret, Domaine Boyer Martenot TBC

Fabulously glossy and expressive with amazing weight and also tenderness this is forward, balanced, flattering and refreshing wine and there is no need to have to wait and see what happens with age because it is already on display.  Stunning balance, seriously layered and welcoming this is a superb creation and one which pays ultimate respect to its amazing vineyard setting.  18.5/20

2018 Meursault, En l’Ormeau, Domaine Boyer Martenot £42.50

This is a textbook Meursault with neat acidity and nicely behaved fruit.  Everything is in order and while it is satisfying, smooth and cultured, it doesn’t quite get the pulse racing like the others in the line-up.  17.5/20

2018 Meursault-Charmes, 1er Cru, Domaine Boyer Martenot TBC

With more amplitude and attack that the previous wine this is a much more opinionated Chardonnay that En l’Ormeau but it ought to be because it is Premier Cru from a desperately impressive situation.  With strident freshness matched with opulence and grandeur, this is a very exciting wine setting out on a fascinating journey.  18+/20

2018 Meursault-Perrières, 1er Cru, Domaine Boyer Martenot TBC

Even more expressive and more detailed than Charmes, this is a great wine and one which has more depth and electricity under its surface.  Superbly weighted and effortlessly classy, this is the grandest wine in the portfolio and it is thoroughly worthy of its gold medal score.  18.5+/20