Lea & Sandeman 2019 Burgundy En Primeur Tasting with my QP recommendations

Lea & Sandeman 2019 Burgundy En Primeur Tasting

 

I was delighted to be involved in the Lea and Sandeman 2019 Burgundy EP tastings this year and you can read Lea & Sandeman’s full 2019 Burgundy En Primeur Offer here – https://www..co.uk/2019-BURGUNDY-EN-PRIMEUR-88-02.html

This year’s event was going to be very different to previous incarnations as Charles Lea explains – The samples arrived with us on the Monday and Tuesday, before the planned tasting on Wednesday 16 December, mostly from a shipment picked up the previous Thursday from Yves Confuron, who kindly agreed to be the gathering points in the Côte de Nuits at the family Domaine, and also at Domaine de Courcel for the Côte de Beaune and points south, but also from a separate shipment from Chablis.

On Monday 14 December it was clear that in the newly announced Tier 4 the tasting was likely to be cancelled, but we did not get final confirmation of this from 67 Pall Mall (the event venue) until the Tuesday. I was rather desperately trying to find where we could buy bottles, starting with the obvious internet supply points, but none could deliver quickly enough.  After calls to various spirits producers who we thought might have supplies, including Sipsmith (who bottle their miniatures in Glasgow), it occurred to me to ask Matthew Jukes, who bottles his Jukes non-alcoholic ‘Cordialities’ just a few railways arches along from our cellars.

Matthew was brilliant, offering his immaculate food-handling-grade facility and bottling and capping machines and the help of his head of production, Melania.  Initially a little worried that his 3cl bottles were simply too small, I dithered for a moment, but the alternatives were all too complicated and going to take too long for such fragile samples, so we went for it and on the designated tasting day, began the bottling.  The bottling machine is simple – each bottle being held to a nipple while it is filled from a pipe that goes directly into the sample bottle. We filled the bottles right to the brim to minimise air contact, but there was no pretence that this was in anaerobic conditions – and the metal caps were placed loosely on top immediately, and the bottles placed on a stainless steel tray, with the empty bottle for identification, to be carried to the capping machine.’ CL

Melania, at Jukes Cordialities, and the L&S team converted 154 individual bottles of wine into multiple press tasting kits and I have to admit it worked exceptionally well.  It was very exciting for my business to be involved in helping this event to go ahead, albeit in a rather unusual format!

Here are my notes on my favourite wines in the L&S offer, sorted in alphabetical Domaine order.

Within this collection of delicious wines, I have highlighted my QP (Rapport Qualité-Prix) favourites.  I know that a stalwart band of my Members set great store in my QP wines, so please act fast if you would like to buy any of these.  QP wines not only taste fantastic and accurate, but they also offer exceptional value for money.

Domaine Comte Armand

Red

2019 Auxey-Duresses, Domaine Comte Armand £130 ib per case of 6 bottles QP

With sensational depth and lovely balance, this is a heavenly, polished and ultra-honed wine with a lovely texture and excellent length, this is a superbly successful wine in this vintage and, no surprise, it is another sun-worshipper, so it has performed perfectly. 18/20

2019 Auxey-Duresses, 1er Cru, Domaine Comte Armand £225 ib per case of 6 bottles QP

More structured and firm and with drying tannins, this is a mega-impressive wine and it looks seriously good in this vintage.  In need of time, because the finish is a little tough and abrupt, there is a whirlwind of fruit here which will propel it forwards perfectly. I am extremely keen on this cuvée. 18.5+/20

2019 Volnay, 1er Cru Fremiets, Domaine Comte Armand £370 ib per case of 6 bottles QP

This is a deep, dark Fremiets and the fruit is tense and mineral-imbued and this adds a harshness to the finish which warns the drinker away. Not to worry because this is a wonderfully ripe wine with accordingly fit tannins and one mustn’t expect it to be remotely forward in a vintage such as this. 18+/20

2019 Pommard, 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux, Domaine Comte Armand £600 ib per case of 6 bottles QP

With awesome depth and also amazing tenderness beneath the bonnet, this is a wonderful wine and a magical interpretation of the 2019 harvest.  This is a barometer wine for the entire vintage and it might just be the finest red south of the town of Beaune! 19+/20

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

white

2019 Montagny, 1er Cru, Jean-Marc Boillot £200 ib per case of 12 bottles QP

It is always a joy to taste these ultra-professional wines and the 2019 is no exception.  Polished, long, vital and invigorating, this is a delicious and forward-drinking beauty.  17.5/20

2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot £225 ib per case of 6 bottles

Relaxed, classy and layered, this is a beautiful and sensual Chardonnay with a forward feel, but it lacks nothing in terms of class and poise. Great freshness lurks beneath a silky-smooth chassis and the length, for a village wine, is sublime. 18/20

2019 Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Champ Canet, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot £315 ib per case of 6 bottles QP

Power-packed and forceful, this is a muscular, well-built, no-nonsense wine with great depth and a square-jawed appeal. In need of a couple of years to unravel, this is a terrific wine with such a strong character it really impresses. 18.5+/20

2019 Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Referts, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot £320 ib per case of 6 bottles QP

With a little more exoticism in the fruit department, this is a heady wine and one with amazing allure.  While it will hold well, this will also kick off early!  18.5+/20

2019 Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Combettes, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot – SOLD OUT

By contrast to the commanding Champ Canet, and the enticing Les Referts, Les Combettes is positively regal and amazingly sensual and this silky touch coupled with the wells of citrus and Comice pear fruit notes make this is an astoundingly beautiful wine.  Simply stunning, this is my pick of the top flight Boillots. 19+/20

2019 Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot POA

We are back to the muscular stance of Champ Canet here, but with a finer feel throughout and a longer, more melodic finish. This is a brilliant Bâtard because it shows admirable restraint while packing in a milles feuilles of flavour. 18.5+/20

Domaine Joseph Colin

white

2019 Saint-Aubin, Compendium, Domaine Joseph Colin £130 ib per case of 6 bottles QP

Floral, nicely balanced and with raspy acidity, this is an impressive wine and one which is detailed and also rewarding.  A new cuvée to me, this ought to be good value and a wise punt, too, for those interested in early drinking wines with a decent degree of flair and accuracy.  17.5/20

2019 Saint-Aubin, 1er Cru Sous Roche Dumay, Domaine Joseph Colin £170 ib per case of 6 bottles

Longer, smoother and a little more buoyant on the palate than the Compendium, this is a handsome creation in this strong portfolio.  17.5+/20

2019 Saint-Aubin, 1er Cru En Rémilly, Domaine Joseph Colin £185 ib per case of 6 bottles QP

If you would like to put away a few cases for a year or two and end up with a Chassagne-shaped wine, then this is the cuvée to pick from the Joseph Colin portfolio.  While the Chassagnes are undoubtedly impressive, with the 1er Cru Caillerets (£315 ib per case of 6 bottles) looking suitably grand, I think that in terms of elite value for money, this is the wine to go for.  17.5+/20

Domaine Dugat-Py

red

2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Halinard, Domaine Dugat-Py £390 ib per case of 12 bottles

This is a seriously attractive and wonderfully joyful wine and the juicy, vibrant fruit is amazingly attractive here.  While this is a relatively forward wine it has great presence and I know it will make ten years such is the class in this wine.  17.5+/20

2019 Beaune, 1er Cru Grèves, Domaine Dugat-Py £654 ib per case of 6 bottles

Perfumed and delightfully balanced, this is a more pliable and gentle wine than expected and the fruit character is charming.  17.5/20

2019 Gevery-Chambertin, 1er Cru Petite Chapelle, Domaine Dugat-Py POA

This is not a heavy Gevrey but a very long one and the fruit is stunningly pure.  The perfume is accurate and the flavour melodic and there is completeness here which is very alluring.  18+/20

Domaine Henri Germain

white

2019 Meursault, Domaine Henri Germain £405 ib per case of 12 bottles QP

I love the gentle, balanced fruit here and completeness of this wine.  Nothing is hurried nor too forced.   Classic Germain.  17.5/20

2019 Meursault, 1er Cru Poruzots, Domaine Henri Germain £355 ib per case of 6 bottles

A huge step up on the delicious village wine, this is a sensational wine and one with serious intensity and also staggering balance, too.  This will be a great price, too, if history is anything to go by!  18.5+/20

Domaine Rémi Jobard

white

2019 Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Rémi Jobard £160 ib per case of 12 bottles

Smooth, balanced, layered and classy, this is a fabulous BB and one which takes fruit from the Mâconnais and blends it with fruit from the outskirts of Puligny.  Great effort and should be good value.  17/20

2019 Bourgogne Côte d’Or, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Rémi Jobard £220 ib per case of 12 bottles QP

A huge step up on the straight BB, this is an imposing wine made from parcels of vines all surrounding  Meursault and it looks suitably grand.  Wearing a strong Jobard signature this is a great way of experiencing this estates wine style but without shelling out too much cash.  17.5+/20

2019 Meursault, 1er Cru Les Charmes, Domaine Rémi Jobard £405 ib per case of 6 bottles

Les Charmes is my pick of the elite Meursaults from Jobard because it is so flamboyant and over the top!  All of the wines from this portfolio look amazing and with Sous le Velle (£200 ib per case of 6 bottles) and Chevalières (£260 ib per case of 6 bottles) doing a great job in the lieu-dit category, and they are both worth a look if you don’t want to drop £1000 on a case of wine!  If you are feeling flush then Les Charmes is the wine to go for because Les Genevrières looked a little too big for me!  Les Charmes manages to gain perfect balance with oak and fruit in harmony.  18.5+/20

Domaine Hubert Lamy

white

2019 Saint-Aubin, 1er Cru Les Frionnes, Domaine Hubert Lamy TBA

Elegant, resonant, super-long and amazingly suave, this is a classic Lamy wine and in 2019 there is an extra degree of drama in this wine.  18+/20

2019 Saint-Aubin, 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière, Domaine Hubert Lamy TBA

With more weight on the palate and a slightly riper stance, this is a thrilling wine and one of my favourite from this village in 2019.  18.5+/20

Domaine Lignier-Michelot

red

2019 Morey-Saint-Denis, En La Rue de Vergy, Domaine Lignier-Michelot £360 ib per case of 12 bottles QP

Vibrant, deep and impressive, I am particularly happy to report this because I have known this estate since the late nineties and this vineyard is a favourite of mine. Richer and layered, this is a superb Morey and I cannot recommend it enough (I am hoping it will be great value, too).  18/20

2019 Morey-Saint-Denis, 1er Cru Les Faconnières, Domaine Lignier-Michelot TBA

Always a more powerful and elemental wine than En La Rue de Vergy, this is a fabulous Faconnières and one with some good mileage in the tank.  I wouldn’t touch this for five years but expect fireworks when you eventually open a bottle. 18+/20

2019 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Lignier-Michelot £920 ib per case of 6 bottles

This is the finest young vintage of this wine since the stellar 2010 and it is rather different in shape, too.   Plush, sensationally well-appointed and amazingly pure, this is a stunning Clos de la Roche and it really does give you what this famous vineyard ought to come up with year in year out but which actually only seems to happen every so often!  Virgile Lignier has nailed it in 2019 and this is a truly thrilling wine. 19+/20

Domaine Moreau-Naudet

white

2019 Chablis, Vieilles Vignes Les Pargues, Domaine Moreau-Naudet £170 ib per case of 12 bottles QP

A perennial favourite of mine, there is a lot of fun here and layers of fruit, too, and this makes it a stand-out wine from the various villages offerings in this vintage.  The finish is astounding, with pristine, lemony acidity and I think that this wine will look ravishing from the moment it lands ad for a good five years after this date, too.  17.5/20

2019 Chablis, 1er Cru Vaillons, Domaine Moreau-Naudet £245 ib per case of 12 bottles QP

With more flesh on the bone, this is a richer and slightly more hedonistic style and one which can cope with more intense cuisine.  I would be tempted to grab both of these Moreau-Naudets, because they are both beautiful and they carry out completely different tasks!  17.5/20

Domaine Thierry Mortet

red

2019 Gevery-Chambertin, Domaine Thierry Mortet £340 ib per case of 12 bottles QP

Nicely controlled with gentle, ripe fruit and lovely control, this is a very balanced wine and one which will drink well in its youth.  It is certainly as open and floral a Gevrey as I have ever seen from Thierry Mortet.   17/20

2019 Gevery-Chambertin, Vigne Belle, Domaine Thierry Mortet £375 ib per case of 12 bottles

With a little more grunt and mid-palate depth, this is a lovely wine and it has more of the tannin and grip which I would associate with this label and also this vintage.  17.5+/20

Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

red

2019 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg SOLD OUT

This is an exotically perfumed Vosne and the nose makes you dive in immediately to experience the fabulous fruit flavours in this wine.  With epic balance, flesh and stunning precision, this is a top-class 2019.  18+/20

2019 Vosne-Romanée, La Colombière, Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg SOLD OUT This is an even more accurate wine than the superb village number above and there is more tannin here, so while I like it every bit as much it will outlive its sibling.  Very impressive, this Vosne pair is first class.  18.5+/20

2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru Les Chaignots, Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg SOLD OUT

With a square frame and a little less exoticism on display than found in the pair of Vosnes, this wine is, on the face of it, a less overtly delicious candidate, but there is so much energy and flair here it is amazing.  I am mightily impressed with the depth of fruit and also the length of flavour and so I am going to reward it with yet another serious score.   18.5+/20

2019 Clos Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg SOLD OUT

It is so encouraging to see a good few Grands Crus stand up in this vintage.  I usually advise people to be very careful and pick out elite Premiers Crus rather than trade up, but in 2019 this wine and a decent selection of others look smart.  Classy, layered, regal and super-smooth, this is another winner from GMG.  18.5+/20

Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

red

2019 Morey-Saint-Denis, La Rue de Vergy, Domaine Perrot-Minot £675 ib per case of 6 bottles

Coming from one of my favourite lieu-dits, situated just above Grand Cru Clos de Tart, this is a pure, vibrant and lifted wine and it really shows of Perrot-Minot’s skills at focussing fruit flavours and this means that it is a favourite of mine in this portfolio.  Relatively forward in the context of the vintage, this is a delicious and hedonistic wine. 18+/20

2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru La Richemone Vignes Centenaires, Domaine Perrot-Minot £2000 ib per case of 6 bottles

This is a sensational wine and it is insanely decadent on both the nose and the palate.  There is a heroic stance here and the beauty to power ratio is sensational  19+/20

2019 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Perrot-Minot £2460 ib per case of 6 bottles

Riper and juicier than I was expecting, but I suppose that Charmes often has a flattering side to it, this is a slightly fuller-framed wine than usual and this reflects the nature of the vintage.  The nose and finish bookend a fabulously glossy palate and this is a marvellous and rather mellow wine in every respect.  19+/20

2019 Mazoyères-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Perrot-Minot POA

Take every element of the other Perrot-Minot wines and combine them, add wildness, more exoticism and a sprinkling of flamboyance and you have Mazoyères-Chambertin.  Near-perfect, this is one of the most amazing and heart-stoppingly beautiful wines of the vintage.  19.5+/20

Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

white

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Vergers, Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot £405 ib per case of 12 bottles QP

It is safe to say that Pillot played a blinder in 2019.  Chassagne Premiers Crus Vide Bourse (£510 ib per case of 12 bottles), Les Champgains (£405 ib per case of 12 bottles), Morgeot (£405 ib per case of 12 bottles), Grandes Ruchottes (£605 ib per case of 12 bottles), Puligny Noyers Brets (£335 ib per case of 12 bottles) and even the muscular Meursault Caillerets (£495 ib per case of 12 bottles) all gained 17.5 scores in my notes and every wine looked spot on with regard to exact GPS location and balance.  But one wine popped its head up above the crowd – Les Vergers.  Lively, lifted and with more verve and tenacity, this is the prettiest and most engaging of the lot and while this cuvée is not always a front-runner, in 2019 it is my pick.  18+/20

Domaine Isabelle & Denis Pommier

white

2019 Chablis, 1er Cru Troësmes, Domaine Isabelle & Denis Pommier £220 ib per case of 12 bottles QP

My pick from the Pommier line-up was this succulent Troësmes.  With a slightly fuller frame and a touch of exoticism, this was the wine which stood out as it combined open, welcoming fruit with typical Pommier rigidity on the finish.  17.5+/20

Domaine François Raquillet

red

2019 Mercurey Vieilles Vignes Rouge, Domaine François Raquillet £180 ib per case of 12 bottles QP

Spot on, beautifully vibrant, pure, herbal and floral, this is a delightful wine with boundless red cherry energy and it ought to be keenly priced, too. 17+/20

SCORES

I have attached my scores out of 20 for every wine.  If a score has no ‘+’, this indicates a wine which is in balance and can be drunk relatively young thanks to its precocity and charm.  One ‘+’ indicates a wine that will benefit from medium-term ageing (in accordance to the style of the wine), while two ‘++’ indicates a wine that should manage to make the long haul, softening and evolving as it goes.

FIN