Episode 12 – 17th June 2020
Last weekend, a wine was dropped from my Weekend Magazine page thanks to a change in the design of the layout. This is always unfortunate because I plan my recommendations each week very carefully. Unfortunately, I didn’t know about his until I bought the paper on Saturday morning and I noticed that my star wine of the weekend, dunleavy Rosé, was missing. So without further ado, here it is, along with another excellent bottle for you to enjoy.
2019 dunleavy, Pinot Noir Rosé, Somerset (£16.75, www.vinoteca.co.uk; £12.95, with free delivery for 6 or more bottles, www.dunleavyvineyards.co.uk).
This is a super-chic rosé with bitingly fresh cherry and rosehip tones and an unmistakable air of classiness. Slender, elegant and intriguing, this carmine-hued Pinot weighs in at only 11.5% alcohol and so it is gentle, too, despite its strident aromatics and bracing finish. Support this exemplary Somerset winery’s drive and ingenuity with this fabulous new wine. As the weather warms up a little this is exactly the sort of rosé which treads the boards between delicious seafood and fish dishes as well as charcuterie, terrines and pork pies. It is worth noting that if you like oysters with shallot vinegar, sushi with wasabi or chilli hot Indian recipes, all tricky when it comes to matching with wine, dunleavy Pinot Noir Rosé does not miss a beat while romancing each and every one of these styles of cuisine and that makes it a very valuable wine for serious epicureans.
2018 Mâcon-Cruzille, Clos des Avoueries Monopole, Domaine du Château de Messey, Burgundy, France (£16.95, www.swig.co.uk).
I tasted three wines from Domaine du Château de Messey, the other day, and they were all extraordinary. This was the first time that I have had the pleasure of looking closely at this estate and the wines are unlike any white Burgundies I have seen. There is a stern core of minerality here which comes from the unique, high altitude setting of the 4ha Clos des Avoueries. This incredible vineyard setting, in the northern reaches of the Mâconnais, is farmed organically and these soils stamp an indelible mark in the heart of each of these wines. While this rigidity is fascinating and somewhat awe-inspiring, it gives these wines a splendid backbone from which they hang their glorious fruit. Two special cuvées, 2018 Calcaire (£24.00) and 2018 Pierres Rouges (£24.00), are more backward and detailed, as well as heavier and in need of more time, with Pierres Rouges certainly having the most gravitas. I would not open these for another 12 months at least, whereas my pick of the three wines is the estate blend, which is also the cheapest at a mere £16.95. This wine is drinking now and it shows tenderness and control as well as the tell-tale marks of this mighty Clos beneath its calm surface. If you are a fan of complex and thought-provoking Chardonnay then this wine will blow your mind as well as realign your senses. It is certainly one of the most complex flavours I have experienced at this price point and it shows that even in the sunnier vintages there are plots of vineyards which prevail and make awesome wines.