2017 L’exuberance Rosé du Clos Cantenac, Bordeaux, France

In 2016, I drew your attention to the inaugural 2015 vintage of Martin Krajewski’s stellar wine L’exuberance – the first rosé made from a Saint-Emilion property. It sold out in the blink of an eye. Last year the same thing happened. In 2015, Martin made 6000 bottles and he rightly increased production a little in 2016 to 10000 bottles. However, the devastating frosts in 2017 have slashed the production of this wine down to only 4000 bottles. While this is tragic for fans of this elite cuvée, the unusual 2017 weather conditions (see my 2017 Bordeaux En Primeur Report for full details and a further 333 tasting notes and scores) have meant that the brightness, clarity, acidity and drive in this wine are completely unique!

Super-clean, very tight and really vibrant this is a beautiful wine and alongside the dramatic fruit tones, there is a wondrous, creamy core. Long and vibrant, in the end, the peculiar vintage conditions have helped this wine immensely. There is white wine freshness on the finish which lifts the palate and lengthens the finish and the 1/3 barrel element and lees stirring have cast their spell on the depth of flavour.

Made from 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is a delicate 12.5% alc. (unlike the heftier Provençal models) and it has length and finesse rarely seen in rosé. Get in quick if you would like to reserve some stock. Delivery will happen in the next few months. 18/20 Drinking now – 2020

(£19.95 per bottle sold in cases of 6 x 75cl Private Cellar tel. 01353 721 999 & www.privatecellar.co.uk).