2010 Verdes Matas, Mencía, Adega Pena das Donas, Ribeira Sacra, Spain (£13.95, reduced to £12.95 for a case, Lea & Sandeman tel. 020 7244 0522 & www.leaandsandeman.com). With its vineyards dating back to the Roman times, the region of Ribeira Sacra, in mountainous Galicia, is one of the most exciting and breath-taking areas in Spain for utterly compelling, modern and unique wines. I say modern because the flavours and fruit purity of both the Godello whites and Mencía reds here are as bright and resonant as can be. The fact that many of these wines are artisinally farmed from ancient vines, on terrifyingly steep plots of land, makes them one of the true dichotomies of the wine world. This spectacular (destined to be cult) red is made from fifty year-old vines and the flavour is somewhere between a juicy Pinot Noir and a serious Barbera with a Beaujolais weight (or lack of) on the palate. With pristine red and black fruit notes, a touch of liquorice and violets and a dexterity that is unnerving, you can drink this striking red right now (chilled if you wish). Thanks to its light oak-regime and fresh tannins it is remarkably versatile with food. Try their 2010 Godello Almalarga (£13.95), too, because it is also a stupendous wine with crunchy pear and almond fruit and lime juice acidity.