NV Henri Billiot, Brut Réserve, Grand Cru, Ambonnay, Champagne, France (£28.99, Raeburn Fine Wines of Edinburgh tel. 0131 343 1159; £25.50 by the case, Farr Vintners of London tel. 020 7821 2000). I always attend the annual Comité Champagne tasting at the Banqueting House, in London, and it is usually a great opportunity for me to work through a wide range of wines and find some new recommendations for my readers. The organisational chaos at this year’s event prevented me from covering as much ground as I would have liked, but it didn’t stop me from finding a few simply stunning wines. I am not going to blurt out all of the stars this week – most of them were famous names – but to celebrate my 300th column in MoneyWeek I thought I would shine the spotlight on a little-known, but staggeringly serious and fantastically affordable wine. I used to buy a fair amount of Billiot in the old days, but have lost touch with it of late and my reunion with this Grand Cru beauty was heart-stopping. Made from 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay this lusty, heady, flamboyant but devastatingly beautiful wine is such a snip. The vintage 2005 is also an insanely attractive creation and it is under £35.00. Do not miss out.