2009 Reyneke, Reserve White, Stellenbosch, South Africa (£21.50, www.sawinesonline.co.uk, Hanging Ditch of Manchester tel. 0161 832 8222, Wimbledon Wine Cellars tel. 020 8540 9979, Bottle Apostle of Hackney tel. 020 8985 1549, Premium Wine Collections of Norwich tel. 01603 427554). This incredible wine was one of the inspirations for me travelling out to South Africa a fortnight ago for a massive series of tastings in search of the new stars of the SA wine scene. Johan Reyneke Jr. took over the farming activities from his mother at their property, Uitzicht, high above Stellenbosch, overlooking False Bay, in 1998. Since then he has converted the estate fully to biodynamism and he is at the forefront of this movement in his country. His winemaker, the staggeringly talented Rudiger Gretschel, has embraced this elemental style of farming and has re-jigged the portfolio cunningly releasing some truly mesmerising wines of late. I was allowed to taste bottled and tank samples of the 2010s and 2011s, too, and this estate is surely destined for superstardom. This sumptuous Reserve White is a Sauvignon Blanc which uses 80% new, top flight, Vosges and Allier, light toast, French oak barrels and yet you cannot detect the merest whiff of ‘carpentry’ on its person! It is stylish, expressive and it reflects everything Johan has been trying so hard to achieve. It is one of the most profound and opinion altering wines that I have ever tasted. It is truly world class.
