BORDEAUX 2009
From 29th March – 2nd April 2010 I tasted three hundred or so 2009 wines from barrel samples in Bordeaux. This is the most hyped vintage since the last most hyped one – the Bordelais are masters at talking themselves up every year. So you would have forgiven my cynicism levels as I boarded an easyjet flight down to the most important wine region in the world (rather than the BA one – enough said!).
Bordeaux was much busier than last year. The economic situation is a little rosier now than it was and there were far more Americans and Far Easterners than ever before, all chasing the dream of an immaculate vintage and also chasing allocations from Châteaux who in the past struggled to sell their wines and who are now struggling to supply enough wine for an ever-growing world thirst.
I read weather reports like I am sure you do, but I do not look as far into these as some with regard to second-guessing the quality of a vintage. We all know that the weather in the first half of last year was appalling – and it was in Bordeaux, too. Until mid-July many winemakers didn’t rate their chances of producing a decent, clean harvest. However, the sun always shines on the French and an uninterrupted (Indian summer, no less) spell helped the grapes to ripen fully late into the autumn. Hail caused problems on the Right Bank, but most people had decent yields and very fit grapes indeed. In many cases though, this sunshine and some unusual water stress conditions, with accompanying long hang time on the vine, led to some pretty high potential alcohols, particularly with Merlot. My favourite Left Bank wines are those with very heavy Cabernet Sauvignon content. Cab seemed to keep its feet on the ground with low to mid-thirteen degree alcohols, but Merlot, in some cases, hit sixteen! Wise blending made sure that this ‘hot’ Merlot didn’t tip the wine into a state of unbalance. On the Right Bank high alcohol wines were more prevalent and my favourites were again those with superb fruit brightness and control, but no jammy, hot finishes.
2009 has some great wines, and some of the peaks are perhaps higher than in 2005. But 2005 had a uniformity that was incredible, and with so many people dropping the ball in the vineyard and on the blending table in 2009, it cannot be said that this year is ‘better’ than 2005. Prices will sky-rocket, too, making most of the classed growths very dear indeed. Without the freshness of acidity that the 2005s possess (in harmony with their tannins) 2009 will be a more forward and juicy vintage in the cellar. The majority of the wines will drink well from eight years, but the great Cab-dominant wines, like Lafite, Margaux and Latour will run and run. Interestingly I tasted a lot of 2008s last week, too, and they looked fresh, balanced and vibrant. I really like these wines and you should not dismiss them. They will look very good value indeed in a few months time when all of the 2009 prices have been released.
So, should you buy wines from this fantastic vintage? Yes – but do look to my value list below because despite the fact that prices will be crazy, some estates made exceptional wines and they will not be able to push them up too far.
My favourite ten wines (at any price)
Château d’Yquem, 1er Cru Superieur (Sauternes) 20/20
Château Lafite-Rothschild, 1er Cru (Pauillac) 19.5/20
Château Margaux, 1er Cru (Margaux) 19.5/20
Château Léoville-Las Cases, 2ème Cru (St-Julien) 19/20
Château Pontet-Canet, 5ème Cru (Pauillac) 19/20
Château Latour, 1er Cru (Pauillac) 19/20
Château Ausone, Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ (St-Emilion) 19/20
Vieux-Château Certan (Pomerol) 19/20
Château Rieussec, 1er Cru (Sauternes) 19/20
Château Haut-Brion Blanc, Pessac-Léognan 19/20
My favourite ten great value red wines (assuming prices are fair)
Château Pontet-Canet, 5ème Cru (Pauillac) 19/20
Château Léoville-Poyferré 2ème Cru (St-Julien) 18.5/20
Château Calon-Ségur, 3ème Cru (St-Estèphe) 18.5/20
Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux (Margaux) 18.5/20
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 5ème Cru (Pauillac) 18/20
Château Talbot, 4ème Cru (St-Julien) 18/20
Château Haut-Batailley, 5ème Cru (Pauillac) 18/20
Château Labégorce, (Margaux) 18/20
Château Langoa-Barton, 3ème Cru (St-Julien) 17.5/20
Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru (St-Estèphe) 17.5/20
