2006 Rosso di Montalcino, Ginestreto, Fuligni, Tuscany, Italy (£17.95, by the case £16.50, Lea & Sandeman, tel. 020 7244 0522 and www.leaandsandeman.co.uk). This is the finest wine I can possibly think of drinking this week, not least because it is delicious, wintry, noble, highly intellectual and also perfect with all of the usual Christmas fare! If you love Chianti, but often find it too pinched or tannic; adore Brunello di Montalcino but can’t bear to drop fifty quid every time that you get thirsty and delight in well-chosen Italian reds, but find the whole subject something of a nightmarish lottery, then look no further! Ginestreto is a wonderful wine with an aroma that pulls you in to the glass like a vinous tractor beam. I showed it to my wine writing fiancée the other day and she was totally mesmerised by the wine, swirling and sniffing for ages and not wanting to let the glass go. The medium-weight, briar and red cherry fruit is silky smooth, layered and ever so distinguished. The length is staggering and the haunting aftertaste conjours up cosy images of a log fire, a superbly cooked stew with root veg and crusty bread and a decent slab of cheese! Absolute heaven – this Rosso is what Christmas is all about.