2007 Moric, Blaufränkisch Lutzmannsburg, Alte Reben, Mittelburgenland, Austria (£46.50, Huntsworth Wine tel. 020 7229 1602 & http://www.huntsworthwine.co.uk; http://www.slurp.co.uk; Clark Foyster Wines tel. 020 8567 3731). Winemaker Roland Velich is in a class of his own. He is a charismatic, shamanic gentleman, with impeccably tailored suits and suave, vampiric stance that commands immediate respect among his acolytes. This is the finest bottle of Austrian red wine I have ever tasted (the second best was his 2006 Lutzmannsburg)! In fact, the wines under the Moric label are nothing short of spectacular and some might go as far as to say that they are life-changing. Blaufränkisch is a curious grape variety – its taste profile is not dissimilar to an earthier version of Pinot Noir. Velich makes this wine like it is the most prized Grand Cru Pinot and he manages to capture the soaring, high adrenalin fruit flavours and the tender notes, too, that Pinot parades at only a handful of Burgundy’s top estates. But, Blaufränkisch has more to offer than just fruit. It is the earthiness which underpins the juiciness, which brings debauched musky notes to the party and they are liberally daubed throughout this incredible taste experience. Please track a bottle down and allow yourself to fall under its spell.